Bicycle India 2007

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - NEW DELHI, AFTER 2,000 MILES

2008-02-08T02:50:00.000-06:00

February 8, 2007 - from Kosi to New Delhi

FINAL DAY IN THE SADDLE. This day last year was our final day of a 2,000-mile bicycle ride from the southern tip of India to New Delhi. It would prove to be both a frightening and fulfilling day. But it’s not likely any difficulty could have dimmed our spirits or deterred us from making the last day of our cycling journey a bright one.

DANGEROUS FOG. We rode north out of Kosi in a serious fog. Visibility was extremely low. Objects were not visible until about 30 feet in front of you. It was eerie and dangerous. Vehicles were driving too fast to see us and we were forced off the road several times. We thought the fog would lift soon, but it persisted most of the way to Delhi. The moisture soaked our clothing and the spray covered our bikes.

INTO DELHI. The sun finally burned the fog away by the time we reached the outskirts of Delhi after noon. We plowed our bikes through the capitol's thick traffic. Our experience of pedaling through Bangalore, Hyderabad and Nagpur served us well. We were tired from the day’s harrowing 75-mile / 120-kilometer ride, but we were psyched as we rode into the heart of Delhi. We’d studied the map of the city enough to know where we wanted to go.

CELEBRATING AT INDIA GATE. We headed straight for the India Gate in old Delhi as our “finish line.” The India Gate is a massive arch, memorializing all India’s war dead. It stands at one end of a grand boulevard on the scale of the National Mall in Washington, D.C. At the opposite end of Rajpath Marg are the Presidential buildings and India’s Parliament (we also visited these sites). Once we reached the India Gate, we lifted our bikes over our heads and celebrated the completion of the cycling portion of our journey. We’d ridden over 2,000 miles / 3,200 kilometers since starting in Nagercoil on December 30. We had much for which to be grateful.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - LEAVING AGRA

2008-02-07T06:08:00.000-06:00

February 7, 2007 - from Agra to Kosi

TAJ MAHAL. Our little bicycle entourage arrived in Agra on February 5, 2007, and visited the Taj Mahal the next day. The world's most awesome mausoleum was simply grand. It's reflection of the hues of the sky at various times of day was beautiful. The sheer size and intricate detail of the edifice, as well as its elegant endurance over centuries, seem to make it worthy of its reputation as a man-made wonder. Indians are rightfully proud of this expression of art, ingenuity and hard labor.

FIRST RAIN. We had opportunity to use our rain gear for the first time on February 7, after a thunderstorm passed through Agra in the middle of the night. O, what a gloriously muddy mess we and our bikes were in by mid-morning of our ride out of Agra. But the rain stopped, the clouds cleared, and by midday the sun had dried the roadway.

DAY FOR FLATS. It was our day for flat tires, too. I punctured and repaired quickly. Joe hit a piece of glass that cut his tire, which took a bit more time to repair. Then, my back tire went down...again. We found the culprit: the same tiny shard of glass imbedded in the tire surface. Three flats in a day after only two punctures in over 1,900 miles…interesting. Cross-country cycling requires readiness to quickly repair flat tires and access extra tires and supplies.

NEXT TO LAST DAY OF RIDING. We pedaled 108 kilometers / 66 miles to a little town on National Highway 2 called Kosi on what was our next to last day of cycling in India. The roads had become familiar to us. We became quite adept at the Indian “rules of the road.” We were accustomed to the diverse activity on the roadsides. We felt like we are part of it and it is a part of us. There were hardly any more unique visuals that we hadn’t already captured on photo or video clips. Still, the thought that we will not be riding these roads—Seals and Crofts’ song “We May Never Pass this Way Again” came to mind—put us in a wistful but grateful frame of mind.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - BIOFUEL

2008-02-04T07:43:00.000-06:00

February 4, 2007 - transition day in Gwalior

GETTING READY FOR OUR LAST LEG. This day one year ago was a Sunday and a transition day into our last week and sixth team of Indian riders for the 2,000-mile bicycle ride from the southern tip of India to New Delhi. The last leg of our journey would take us to Agra, where we would spend a day touring the Taj Mahal and Red Fort, and then two days of riding on to New Delhi. We would pass through territory where the "Bandit Queen" (India's version of Robin Hood) would run raids on freight trucks. We would enjoy the company of a hearty team of riders from Mumbai (formerly Bombay). We would encounter frighteningly thick fog on the ride toward New Delhi. And we would finally celebrate in the heart of India's incredible capitol.

POWER OF COWPIES. All along our journey, we had to swerve to avoid cowpies. Cattle, sacred in Hindu religion, roam freely or are harnessed for work. They are also the source of India's milk. Cow and water buffalo manure is collected, shaped into saucer-like pies, dried in the sun, and artfully stacked for later use in cooking or heating (as in the photo). Cowpies are also used as plaster to reinforce huts and serve doubly to keep insects away. Of course, the smell of burning cowpies serves up a distinct aroma wherever it is being burned. But it IS a biofuel...and cheap. No doubt, more uses of animal waste for energy will figure significantly in the future of energy-hungry, green-sensitive economies.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - SEBASATIEN

2008-02-03T15:23:00.000-06:00

February 3, 2007 - from Jhansi to Gwalior

MEETING SEBASTIEN. Our 100-kilometer / 62-mile ride north from Jhansi to Gwalior on this day last year was smooth, but not uneventful. Riding through a small town, a young man on a bike rode up beside me. Not unusual. What was unusual was that he was on a mountain bike and that he was white. As he rode along beside me, I discovered that his name was Sabastien and he was from Lausanne, Switzerland. I invited him to ride with us and join us for lunch. We learned that he had ridden alone from Katmandu, Nepal and was touring India, eventually intending to ride to Kolkata.

GREAT SAVE. After lunch, Sabastien left us, riding on ahead. But we came across him in about an hour. His bike had broken down, apparently irrepairably. We hoisted his bike on the trailer and took him on in to Gwalior. Bob Yardy spent the next three hours taking apart and repairing his back wheel hub and gear assembly. With Bob's know-how and parts cobbled together from local shops, the bike was nearly good as new and Sebastien was able to continue his trek.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - JHANSI KEE RANI

2008-02-02T06:12:00.000-06:00

February 2, 2007 - from Lalitpur to Jhansi

COLD START, WARM FINISH. On this day last year, we were thankful to bicycle on a smooth road for the first time in many days. And, for the only time on the 6-week, 2,000-mile journey, we were cold. When we began at 6:45 am, the temperature was 52 degrees Fahrenheit. Our fingers were numb and we were chilled. But by 9:00 am, the temperatured had climbed to 70. By noon it was over 80 degrees. Yep, an American Midwestern September day! When we arrived in Jhansi, we stayed in the guest house of the Maria Ackerman Hoyt Memorial Hospital.

JHANSI KEE RANI. We arrived in Jhansi, our day’s destination, early in the afternoon. Our hosts told us that Jhansi was the beginning point of India’s freedom movement against Great Britain in 1857. The story goes that a 22-year old woman named Lackshmi Bai, the recent widow of the area’s Maharaja (territorial prince), rallied the town to fight the British when they tried to seize control of the area after her husband’s death. Agreements between the Maharajas and the British stated that Indians would maintain control of an area as long as there was an heir. Lackshmi Bai was childless, but she and her husband had adopted a son. Upon the Maharaja’s death, the British refused to recognize the child as the next prince and moved to take control. Rallying the town to resist the British and fight for their freedom, the people occupied the local hillside fort. A traitor in their midst opened the gates and British forces flooded in. Lackshmi Bai, with her child on her back and a horse under her, leaped from the high fort wall and escaped to continue the freedom challenge. She is revered as Jhansi kee Rani…the Queen of Jhansi.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - HOSPITAL HOSPITALITY

2008-02-01T10:29:00.000-06:00

February 1, 2007 - from Sagar to Lalitpur

FROM SAGAR TO LALITPUR. We rode 116 kilometers / 70.5 miles on on very rough roads the first day of February 2007. The trek from Sagar to Lalitpur didn't have so many potholes as uneven and patched tarmac. Our new team of Indian riders got an immediate baptism in riding such a distance in a day. Yogish, a young man from Nagpur, experienced only our second tire puncture in over 2,400 km. We left the state of Madhya Pradesh and entered the state of Uttar Pradesh, inching us nearer to New Delhi.

HARRIET BENSON MEMORIAL HOSPITAL. In Lalitpur, we were privileged to be hosted in the guest house of the Harriet Benson Memorial Hospital. This was our second evening to be guests of Christian hospitals (other than Umri Christian Hospital) initiated by missionaries external to India and now led by Indian medical and operations staff. These hospitals have an important medical mission in serving the poorest of the poor with caring and quality medical care. In addition to hospital guest houses, we were invited to stay overnight in churches, a school for deaf young people, homes, and training facilities.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - YOUTH MOVEMENT

2008-01-31T08:44:00.000-06:00

January 31, 2007 - somewhere in northern Uttar Pradesh

While India seems incredibly ancient, there are signs everywhere of its emergence in the 21st century as a modern nation. While traditional ways prevail in villages and small towns, even there it is in the faces and lives of children and youth that a very different future can be seen taking shape. Children on the move to schools and into higher levels of technical training were a constant reality throughout our 2,000-mile bicycle tour from Nagercoil in Tamil Nadu to the government center in New Delhi one year ago. It remains to be seen what shape India's future will take; it is a work in progress being formed by many different and competing forces. This dynamic makes it one of the most fascinating cultures and nations to observe over a lifetime.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - ROUGH ROAD TO SAGAR

2008-01-30T11:10:00.000-06:00

January 30, 2007 - from Lakhnadon to Sagar

JOLTED AND JARRED. Our bicycle entourage veered off National Highway 7 and continued to travel a "short cut" to Sagar on this day last year. The road turned out to be the roughest section we would ride in the 2,000-mile journey. We were jolted and jarred. The going was slow. A few times, we almost decided to put the bikes on the trailer. But, we made it. Even for the really bad parts, there were a few segments that were good as well as hilly. Bob Yardy and I had fun sailing down a few of the hills, as this photo taken by Joe James indicates.

DO I KNOW HOW TO RIDE? I had a gnarly mountain bike crash in June 2007 and landed in the hospital with 17 fractures. Joe had this photo enlarged to poster size and framed. He brought it to my hospital room and said he just wanted everyone to know that I really do know how to ride a bike! This photo now hangs in my office for all to see.

RIDING ON. I'm back on my bike and feeling no pain. In fact, the very bike in this photo--an old Cannondale touring bike I bought used a few years ago--is what I'm riding outside through the winter. My newer Cannondale (all of 1991 "new") is on a Cyclops trainer in our basement--for use when it's just too cold outside. Today it is about 10 degrees Fahrenheit in Indianapolis, so I'll be riding inside! I'm way behind in my effort to pedal 1,000-miles (half the distance we rode in India) between December 30 and February 8 of this year, but I'm still pedaling whenever I can. -- John Hay, Jr.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - AGREEING WITH THE FOOD

2008-01-29T04:14:00.000-06:00

January 29, 2007 - north of Lahknadon

LOCAL FOOD. During our 2,000-mile bicycle ride up through the middle of India at this time last year, we ate local food for all meals. From south to north, we ate whatever was available at the dhabas and restaurants. Without exception, it agreed with us and we agreed with it. We had to get used to the spices and chilies, sometimes asking that the food preparer go light on the chilies. Aside from that, Indian food set well with us all.

WHAT WE ATE. At the roadside dhabas that we stopped at each day, we'd have (and please pardon some of my spelling) edly, dall, roti, dosa, samosas, toasted bread, and/or an omelet for breakfast. Sometimes, Sanju and other members of our group helped cook at the dhabas (as in the photo below). After 60 kilometers of pedaling, we stop at a dirt-floor, tin-roof, open-air restaurant for a modest lunch of rice, chapatis, vegetable, chicken or mutton curry, and fruit. Each evening we reload our depleted energy with the same, or some soup and fried rice, at a local eatery.

AQUAFINA, GATORADE & BANANAS. Our essential nutrition mix focused on carbs and protein, with simple sugars for immediate energy. On the road during the daily ride, we ate bananas and whatever fresh fruit Sanju selected from roadside markets. As we were riding in 85-100 degree Fahrenheit temps, each of us took in about 6 liters of bottled water or Gatorade during the course of a day.

MANGO TREATS. One occasional indulgence (okay, constant obsession) was to comb a village or town in an evening for mango jam or mango ice cream. It was almost as good as Indian chai. Almost.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE?

2008-01-28T16:23:00.000-06:00

January 28, 2007 - somewhere in Uttar Pradesh, India

NOWHERE, MOVING QUICKLY. The land steadily rose and became more forested, the villages few and far between the further we moved north of Nagpur. Still, we saw signs of development even when it seemed we were in the middle of nowhere. We traveled on National Highway 7 for about 85% of our bicycle ride from the southern tip of India to New Delhi. All along the 2,000-mile ride, construction on the roadway was nearly constant. The road was being upgraded and widened from south to north. We felt that India, ancient at one level, was developing rapidly and on the move at another level.

MOVING TO THE CITIES. This family was waiting for a bus to transport one or all of them to New Delhi. Movement away from villages to urban areas is steady. This is part of a complex, multi-faceted pattern that is dynamically changing the cultural and economic realities of India. One wonders if India as it is now known will be recognizable in ten years. Note the warm clothing being warn by this family: it was a "cool" 72 degrees when this photo was taken. That's about 15-20 degrees below normal for a January day in the middle of India.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - STARTING WEEK 5

2008-01-27T20:14:00.000-06:00

January 27, 2007 - heading north from Nagpur

URBAN SCENE AND VILLAGE LIFE. This day one year ago we were one day into the 5th leg of our journey from the southern tip of India to New Delhi. We started the morning with a team of fresh Indian riders from Maharashtra Village Ministries, riding thru the city of Nagpur (population approximately 2 million) before traffic became heavy. As interesting as passing village life is, a bike ride through an urban area is overwhelming. We’ve ridden through a thousand villages and only a handful of large cities, but because the city scene is so concentrated and intense, its impact lingers long on our senses.

INTO FORESTED HEIGHTS. We continued north on NH 7 for 138 kilometers / 85.5 miles. This was 24 km / 15 mi further than we planned. But, after making the longest ascent of the tour (rising nearly 1,700 feet in a 10 km / 6.2 mi climb), the town we hoped to stay in overnight turned out to be a small village without lodging. Already tired from the tedious climb, our only recourse was to pedal another 24 km / 15 mi to a town called Seoni. We arrived safely, though weary.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - REPUBLIC DAY

2008-01-26T06:54:00.000-06:00

January 26, 2007 - from Sevagram to Nagpur

GROUND ZERO FOR INDIAN INDEPENDENCE. One year ago today, we awoke at the home of Indian independence--Gandhi's ashram at Sevagram. Not long into our day's ride north to Nagpur, we realized it would be no ordinary day. It was Republic Day in India. Unlike anything we'd experienced in America on July 4, Indians came out into the streets in a proud demonstration of their nation's democratic freedoms.

CELEBRATING IN EVERY TOWN. Every town and village we rode through on our way to Nagpur was having a parade or celebrating. India gained its independence non-violently from England on August 15, 1947. But it was three years later--on January 26, 1950--that India formally became a republic, adopting its constitution and installing a democratically-elected government.

WORLD'S LARGEST DEMOCRACY. The democracy is still young--just 57 years old--and quite dynamic. One gets the sense that the nation is still coming into its own. India is now the world’s largest democracy, at nearly 1.2 billion citizens.

"MY INDIA." Indians are very proud of their country and its growing place among nations. It was written on their faces and in the intensity of their patriotism on this day. It was affectionately spoken: "My India!" We celebrated, too, flying the India flag on our bicycles from this day forward--all the way into New Delhi.

THE ARGUMENTATIVE INDIAN. While in India, I picked up a book by one of India's Nobel laureates. The book is titled The Argumentative Indian. The author makes the point that democracy will likely have its fullest expression in this nation because of the will and ability of Indians to express their views and concerns vociferously and to organize and take to the streets for the sake of their voices being heard. May it be so.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - AT GANDHI'S HOME

2008-01-25T07:13:00.001-06:00

January 25, 2007 - from Yavatmal to Sevagram

FROM YAVATMAL TO WARDHA. Early in the morning on this day one year ago, our bicycle entourage was sent off by staff and students of Yavatmal College for Leadership Training. Five Indian riders from the school would accompany us to Nagpur. The more the merrier! We passed through Wardha, a major intra-India train exchange depot. We then rode on to a little place called Sevagram.

AT GANDHI’S HOME. Sevagram became the rural home of Mahatma Gandhi in 1936. From this quiet place Gandhi not only practiced the simple, powerful principles of his convictions, but led India in a non-violent march to independence until England finally "quit India" in 1947. Gandhi guided India to independence without military force, but with the force of non-violent spirit and actions of civil disobedience.

REPUBLIC DAY: JANUARY 26. Three years after English rule ended, the Indian democracy was established on January 26, 1950. Republic Day is commemorated across India with great affection. We spent the night in guest huts at Gandhi's ashram in Sevagram. It seemed fitting that we should begin Republic Day from the birthplace of Indian independence. Visiting Sevagram was a deeply moving experience for us.

ASHRAM OBSERVANCES. At the Sevagram ashram (retreat center), I read the sign posting the "Seven Deadly Social Sins" that Gandhi defined and which I have frequently contemplated. I was also interested in the 11 Ashram Observances and have contemplated the impact of the power of the use and abandonment of these practices both in India and among American Christians. Here are the 11 Ashram Observances at Sevagram:
1. Truth
2. Non-violence
3. Chastity
4. Non-possession
5. Non-stealing
6. Bread-Labor
7. Control of palate
8. Fearlessness
9. Equality of religions
10. Swadeshi (Gandhi's description: "a call to the consumer to be aware of the violence he is causing by supporting those industries that result in poverty, harm to workers and to humans and other creatures")
11. Removal of untouchability

-- John Hay, Jr.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - IN YAVATMAL

2008-01-24T07:16:00.000-06:00

January 24, 2007 - visiting in Yavatmal, Maharashtra, India

This day one year ago, our 2,000-mile bicycle ride was idle in Yavatmal. Joe had a series of meetings, so John and Bob walked through the marketplace, caught up on news, and basically went wherever Gope wanted to take us in his homeown. We were welcomed into his home and enjoyed wonderful cooking and discussion.

The photo is a tribal dance that welcomed us when we arrived in Yavatmal. The dancers are outreach workers of Maharashtra Village Ministries, young men from villages throughout Maharashtra. I captured the dance on video and will post it here soon.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - BACK ON THE ROAD FOR WEEK 4

2008-01-23T15:53:00.000-06:00

January 23, 2007 - from Umri to Yavatmal, Maharashtra, India

On this day last year, we rode about 40 miles to Yavatmal. After a long weekend at Umri Christian Hospital, we were ready to get back on our bikes and get on up the road. We were welcomed into Yavatmal by Free Methodist friends and outreach workers of Maharashtra Village Ministries. We would spend a day in Yavatmal for a series of meetings before heading north toward Nagpur--our next major city on the map that led to New Delhi.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - HELEN ROSE SCHOOL OF NURSING

2008-01-22T05:18:00.000-06:00

January 22, 2007 - on the UCH Campus in Umri, Maharashtra, India

REACHING OUT. The nurses training program on the campus of Umri Christian Hospital is robustly developing based on the vision of its founders--an outgoing husband and wife nurse team. Amirson and Esther Jacob recruit and equip for professional nursing young women who do not have the means to attend other nursing schools. They also reach out to brides of arranged marriages who have been abandoned by their husbands and who are at risk of suicide. The Amirson's work is inspiring!

WINNING AWARDS. Named for a Free Methodist missionary, the Helen Rose School of Nursing is certified by the government. It has received awards for its outreach and excellence. However, it is essential for the continued certification and development of Helen Rose School of Nursing that Umri Christian Hospital's facilities be replaced and its equipment upgraded. Want to help? Visit our website to support.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - UMRI CHRISTIAN HOSPITAL

2008-01-21T08:29:00.000-06:00

January 21, 2007 - visiting at Umri Christian Hospital

WHY WE RODE 2,000 MILES. This day one year ago, though we had more than 800 yet to pedal, we took time to visit the place for which we were riding 2,000 miles through India. We had a good day with the staff, participants and supporters of Umri Christian Hospital in the village Umri (Yavatmal District of Maharashtra state, India).

AN EXPANSIVE CAMPUS. In addition to the hospital, the campus includes a Free Methodist Church, Bethel Youth Hostel, an English medium school, and the Helen Rose School of Nursing. It is a significant complex of healthcare, education, and spiritual formation. The youth hostel and nursing school buildings are relatively new.

HOSPITAL TO BE REPLACED. The heart of the campus is the hospital, which serves the poorest of the poor in a medically-underserved area. The hospital is housed in 1920's-era buildings. The facilities are deteriorating and in dire need of replacement. While we were there, we were glad to participate in the groundbreaking for the first wing of the new hospital. Since then, construction has progressed well, in spite of major flooding experienced in the Autumn of 2007.

MORE FUNDS TO RAISE. We hope to be able to return to Umri in a few years when the hospital complex is complete. Over $330,000 has thus far been raised for hospital construction and new equipment. An additional $270,000 is still needed for the project to be completed. Every contribution makes a difference. Can you help?

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - CELEBRATION AT UMRI

2008-01-20T07:49:00.000-06:00

January 20, 2007 - from Adilabad to the village of Umri, Maharashtra

VILLAGE WELCOME. One year ago today, our bicycle group arrived in the village of Umri, home of Umri Christian Hospital--the aging medical facility for which our ride was raising awareness and funds for a complete rebuild. We were welcomed both by the village leaders and residents as well as the hospital, nursing school, church, youth hostel, and English school students, staff, and friends. Hundreds of people lined the road and campus to greet us. On campus, we had a huge celebration under a tent to shield us from the hot sun. Great singing, gracious words, joyful hearts. What a day it was!

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - CHASED BY WILD DOGS

2008-01-19T15:22:00.000-06:00

January 19, 2007 - Nirmal to Adilabad

NOT PETS. This is the day one year go that I was chased by wild dogs. Relatively early in the morning, I made it to the top of a mountain after a long series of switchbacks and was coasting slowly, waiting on the other riders. Out of the corner of my eye, I saw some dogs at distance begin to move toward me. Typical Indian dogs don't chase anything. But this was a pack of dogs and they were running hard. They were reddish-brown and quite vicious. They picked up speed and closed in quickly. Full of fear and exploding with adrenaline, I also picked up speed. The lead dog got within 10 feet before I was able to find a high gear and, with the benefit of starting down the other side of the mountain, pedal away. The dogs finally gave up and headed off the road. I cell-phoned back to the other riders to warn them. But the dogs, which I later learned were called dholes and known for cornering and killing large animals, had departed by the time the other riders and the trailer-pulling Tata Victa went through that stretch of road. I felt grateful to have escaped unharmed. -- John Hay, Jr.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - SANJU SUMADRE

2008-01-18T09:04:00.000-06:00

January 18, 2007 - riding to Nirmal

SWEATING THE DETAILS. He is a professional driver, by trade. He is the very embodiment of a servant, by spirit. Even today, one year and half a world away, Sanju Sumadre is an inspiration to me of grace under pressure. His nickname is "Gope." While we pedaled along on our bikes feeling like we were working hard, Gope sweated detail after detail, request after request day after day. Where would we eat for breakfast? For lunch? Was the food safe for us to eat? Could he toast bread for us at the dhaba? Could we get more mango jam? Where would we spend the night? Where would we share an evening meal? How would clothes get laundered? How can we get all that luggage in the back of the Tata Victa?

TRIP MANAGER. And all the while Gope smiles, genuinely smiles. "No problem," he responds. When we arrive at a place of lodging, we head for the showers. Gope heads out to help me find an Internet cafe, scopes out places to eat, buys fresh fruit and supplies for the next day, and performs--unasked, unprompted, but in ready anticipation--endless menial tasks. He handles all our money, makes all purchases, barters for the best price. At the end of the trip, his thrift has brought our journey expenses well under budget. He is paid well and we are able to give left-over expense money to the capital fund to rebuild Umri Christian Hospital.

RESISTING GOPE'S HELP. I acted like a "proud American" during much of our 2,000-mile ride through India. I insisted on carrying all my own luggage, getting my own supplies, finding Internet sites for blogging on my own. Still, there was Gope ever insisting: "I take." "I help." "I buy." "I find." He would seem genuinely disappointed when I resisted his offers of help. I tried to convey to him that caring for my own things was not only fair, but my way of relieving him of unnecessary stress. He just didn't see it that way. Eventually, I began to cooperate with his way and his way helped me accomplish all I'd hoped I would.

LOOKING FOR GOPE. I miss Gope. Of all the people we met and all the friends we made, whom I hope to see and be with again, Gope stands out. I'd like for Gope to be able to visit America; he has a brother living here. Several times he has applied for a Visa and each time has been denied. But if he can visit, I would like to serve him here as he served us there. I hope to return to India, perhaps for another bike ride, perhaps at the dedication of the new Umri Christian Hospital. And I will look for Gope, waiting again outside the airport terminal. And the excursion will have been complete. -- John Hay, Jr.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - TRIBALS

2008-01-17T15:05:00.000-06:00

January 17, 2007 - riding north on National Highway 7

TRIBES OF PEOPLE. All along the 2,000-mile ride from the southern tip of India to New Delhi, mostly along NH 7, we encountered tribal people. Most of India, both rural and urban, is oriented to tribal identities. Some tribal groups maintain ancient ways of living. A few tribal groups are nomadic or migrant. We encountered this group of people residing in stalk huts one day north of Hyderabad. The juxtaposition of tribal life in and near modern cities is mind-stretching and heart-grabbing.

AN EFFERVESCENT FEAST. What our eyes see as we pedal along an Indian highway: A man follows a plow pulled by oxen. Women plant rice fields in calf-deep mud and water. Traffic slows for a herd of cattle being driven down the road. A flock of goats forage by the road, several with their front feet on the trunk of a tree while they reach for tender leaves. School children in uniform wait for their transportation beside the road, smiling, waving, and calling out to us. Men on motorcycles and in auto-rickshaws slow down to ask about us. A caravan of oxcarts with sugar cane piled high creates a challenge for steering your bike as you approach them from behind. There’s an ancient fort on the right. See that little Hindu shrine over there? Monkeys play along the side of the road. And this is just the countryside; India’s cities and towns are even more interesting. India by bicycle is an effervescent feast for the senses and an artesian well for the heart.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - BACK ON OUR BIKES

2008-01-16T15:07:00.000-06:00

January 16, 2007 - moving north out of Hyderabad

ON THE ROAD AGAIN. Our bicycle group of three North American and two Indian riders headed north out of Hyderabad on this day one year ago. We were joined by a man from the state of Washington in the US--David Goodnight. David would ride with us as far as Umri. Having been off the bikes for several days, we were more than ready and happy to be pedaling again. The week would take us north on NH 7 toward Nagpur. But before getting to Nagpur, we would veer off NH 7 to spend several days in Umri--the village in Maharashtra state where Umri Christian Hospital stands.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - FORT GOLCONDA

2008-01-15T18:05:00.000-06:00

January 15, 2007 - Touring Hyderabad

ANTIQUITY EVERYWHERE. While it's cold and snowy in Indianapolis today, it was 85 degrees and sunny where we were in Hyderabad, India this day last year. Bob Yardy and I toured the Nehru Zoological Park and Golconda Fort. I'd wanted to see something of real antiquity (as if I hadn't seen enough of it on NH 7), so we were taken to this massive fort. Goloconda was a centuries-long project built on a towering peak above Hyderabad by Indian labor for the outlandish desires of the Maharajahs.

A TIME TO BUILD. The fort was impressive in every way. But the realization of the corrupt power it represented and its cost in lives, servitude, and abuse saddened me. I climbed up the rock-carved stairs to the very top of the fort and then descended quickly. I walked back to our truck in silence. That day, I think I let go of my fascination with forts--in India, in America or anywhere else. Indians have been building exquisite shrines to foreign conquerors and high-minded oppressors for thousands of years. Perhaps they can now build a society of freedom and creativity that is all their own. -- John Hay, Jr.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - DANCING & FOOT WASHING

2008-01-14T07:34:00.000-06:00

January 14, 2007 - Speaking and Serving in Hyderabad

SERVICE & CELEBRATION. Each of our core team members spoke about our project of raising funds and awareness for rebuilding Umri Christian Hospital at different locations on this day last year. In the afternoon, we headed to a youth hostel for a welcome celebration by the Emmanuel Conference of the Free Methodist Church. It was an uproarious event with garlands, dancing, signs, and children throwing flower petals. Men danced the “tiger dance,” encircling each of our cycling team members and gyrating to tribal drums and instruments. What fun!

SYMBOL OF SACRIFICE & PARTNERSHIP. After the hilarity, we were then offered a foot washing--an ancient rite of both honor and humble service--by two bishops of the Indian church. Feet that were pedaling the length of India for the sake of raising funds to rebuild Umri Christian Hospital were caressed by hands that offer servant leadership to the pastors that serve fledgling communities of faith throughout the southern part of India. In turn, we were privileged to wash the feet of the Bishops.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - BIKES & BIKE SHOPS

2008-01-13T13:09:00.000-06:00

January 13, 2007 - arriving in Hyderabad

CELEBRATION AND NIGHT RIDE. We arrived in the bustling, rapidly-growing city of Hyderabad on this day one year ago. It's been affectionately dubbed "Cyberabad" for its computer tech centers. After riding only 20 miles, our entourage was greeted and celebrated with a street parade and gathering of over 500 Free Methodists. Lots of humbling hoopla; we were made to feel like heroes. After a shared early-afternoon lunch, we got back on our bikes to travel through Hyderabad to our weekend quarters at the Operation Mobilization center on the other side of the city. What we thought would be a brief 10-mile jaunt turned into a harrowing 25-mile ordeal, as our local guide decided to take us around the city instead of through it. The extra time took us into the evening; we rode the last five miles in the dark--a scary ordeal on American roads and much more so in India. But, we all arrived safely.

BIKES FOR SALE! I enjoyed stopping briefly at a few of the many bicycle shops in Hyderabad. More bikes than autos are sold and serviced in India, so a bike shop in a city is quite a center of activity and intrigue. The bike shop in this photo is typical of an urban bicycle shop. It is a far cry from the single repairman sitting on the ground in the market that I observed on New Year's Eve. Most bikes are either Atlas, Hero or Hercules brands and are a standard-size, single-speed, sturdy-steel frame painted black. Most bikes in India are not used for recreation; they're used for work. But in the city we saw a few multi-speed bikes and a few bikes sporting mountain bike handlebars or sport-style features. But even sport bikes had to be used for ride sharing--either passengers or a burden.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - THE DHABAS

2008-01-12T18:03:00.000-06:00

January 12, 2007 - nearing Hyderabad

EATING AT DHABAS. During our daily rides, we would stop to eat an early-morning breakfast and noon-time lunch at dhabas, or open-air restaurants, along National Highway 7. The dhabas are operated by local folk and it is usually a family affair. The food was cooked with wood or other biofuel stoking hot plates and ceramic ovens. It was quite basic. But the food was usually tasty and surprisingly consistent. Sanju, our driver, would find dhabas that had well-cooked food and, when possible, meat to eat. Most Hindus are vegetarians, but you can find plenty of dhabas that serve chicken or mutton (goat) dishes.

ENGLISH-SPEAKING FUTURE. Most of the people we encountered at the dhabas did not speak English. But occasionally a child in the family waiting to go to school or returning from school would be anxious to try out the English they were learning at school on us. This girl at a rural dhaba south of Hyderabad spoke English quite well and her parents were proud of her ability to communicate with us. I have since wondered about this girl's future and what potential it holds. I imagine her future will be far different than that of her parents. Young people who become proficient at English and computers skills find well-paying work in the international corporate centers in Bangalore and Hyderabad. We were told that a young person can earn more in one year than their parents will have made in a lifetime. -- John Hay, Jr.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - GADGETS ON OUR JOURNEY

2008-01-11T04:44:00.000-06:00

January 11, 2007 - between Bangalore and Hyderabad

AN 80-MILER. We bicycled 80 miles on this day last year to get to a busy little town that put us about 150 kilometers south of Hyderabad--the major Indian city that would be our second-weekend destination. It was one of those days when the town we were looking for was really much further than expected. "Only 20 kilometers to go" really meant 40 k further up the road in the sun, heat, dust, and honking trucks. We were over six hours in the saddle on our 13th day. But we arrived safely.

GADGETS FOR THE JOURNEY. We carried several gadgets on our bikes that heightened interest on the journey through India. Each North American rider had a cycle computer, which measures such things as current speed, average speed, distance for the day, total distance for the trek, rpms/cadence, duration of the ride, maximum speed for the day. I used a handlebar-mounted E-Trex GPS unit, which tabulates information like altitude, direction, and a hundred other interesting geo-positioning facts. Two of us carried binoculars. We took still photos and video footage each day. Bob Yardy make audio reports into a tiny digital voice machine. I listened to music and books on my iPod all along the route. And, of course, we and our Indian hosts all yacked on cell phones throughout the journey (there will be more cell phone customers in India than in the USA by the end of 2008!).

INTERNET POSTING. In addition, I would pull out my laptop computer each evening, make an entry, download photos from my camera and Joe's, put the entry and photos on a pin drive and head into the marketplace in search of an Internet cafe. I would post the entries and photos to our blog and check e-mail and news. Almost every town we stayed in had Internet access. Rarely was it high-speed access, but it was usable and useful.

NECESSARY OR HELPFUL? All this for a simple bike ride. Were any of these electronic gadgets necessary? No. Were they helpful? Yes. Our Indian hosts and the folks we encountered along the way must have thought we were crazy. Gracefully, they indulged us.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - ZOO ON THE ROAD

2008-01-10T04:57:00.000-06:00

January 10, 2007 - to Dhone, Karnataka

A THIRD OF THE WAY TO DELHI. One year ago today was our twelfth day in the saddle on our 2,000-mile trek through India. We reached the one-third point in our journey. With untrained Indian riders as our companions, our pace was slower and we were spending more time on our bikes each day than expected. But, all in all, we were pleased with our progress.

THE ROAD ZOO. Some local folk refered to Indian roads as "the zoo." Seriously, we saw enough variety of animals on, beside or near National Highway 7 to populate a small zoo. Motorized vehicles and bicycles share the road with oxcarts and pony-drawn carriages, with goat and sheep herders, with all kinds of cows and water buffalo. Alongside the roads, one frequently saw chickens, pigs, monkeys, and a variety of unfamiliar birds. Strangely, all this seemed normal to us. Why NOT use this main north-south roadway to move India’s dynamic life along?

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - WOMEN LABORERS

2008-01-09T14:26:00.000-06:00

January 9, 2007 - between Bangalore and Hyderabad

WORK ALONG THE WAY. These women aren't dressed up for a special event. This is standard brillance and variety of color in everyday saris worn by women all over India. These women were working as field laborers. They carried grain- and weed-cutting tools along with a lunch box. Two men were apparently in the role of foremen. We encountered many such groups of laborers throughout our 2,000-mile bike ride through India this time last year. Our day-long toil on our bikes couldn't match the hard work these folks put in. We wondered what their compensation per hour or for a day's labor would be. We also wondered if the people so working had choices in the type of work in which they engaged.

Photo by Joe James

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - INTO WEEK 2

2008-01-08T05:43:00.000-06:00

January 8, 2007 - from Bangalore to Bagepalli, Karnataka

REJOINING THE JOURNEY. On this day one year ago, we struck out from Bangalore with two new Indian riders, Mohan and Shereesh. Our guide through Karnataka was a minister named Sagar. It was very humbling to think these guys would take a week out of their year to accompany us on our journey. We set our sights on making it to Hyderabad by week's end. Each day we would crank about 100 kilometers northward on National Highway 7.

MARKETPLACE VARIETY. Villages are relatively close together throughout India. We were never far from a village and a small marketplace. The marketplaces were full of carts filled with every kind of ware that might possibly sell. Fruit and vegetable carts were most prominent and they were often tended by children, like this girl, while other family members tended other marketplace duties. What a great smile!

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - JOSE & ANAND

2008-01-07T13:25:00.000-06:00

January 7, 2007 - resting in Bangalore, Karnataka and visiting in Vellore, Tamil Nadu

THREE PLUS TWO. Little did we know how much of an impact the Indian riders would have on our 2,000-mile cycling trek from the southern tip of India to New Delhi. Three of us were North American--two from the United States and one from Canada. Two riders were from India--but a different two riders each week and each state. The Indian riders were companions to orient us to their particular area, language, culture, customs, etc. Since India has so many different languages and tribes, we felt it was important to spread the experience and sensitize ourselves as best we could to India's diversity.

FROM NAGERCOIL TO BANGALORE. The first set of riders were two teenagers from Nagercoil in Tamil Nadu. Jose and Anand were best friends and Christians, though not Free Methodists. They were great traveling companions. Their humor and earnestness won our hearts. They rode slower than we wanted to ride and we tried to coach them in how to use the multiple speeds on the bikes we provided to their advantage. They eventually sped up--a little. For untrained riders, they rode hard and performed well. As it turns out, they kept the best pace of any of the many wonderful riders who joined us in the remaining five weeks.

WISHING TO RIDE TO NEW DELHI. Jose and Anand hoped other riders would not be found in Bangalore and that they could ride with us all the way to New Delhi. There's a part of me that still wishes that could've happened for them. I have no doubt they were capable of making the entire trek. Watching them head to the train station in Bangalore on this day one year ago was difficult. I hope I will see them again someday. -- John Hay, Jr.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - "CHAI?"

2008-01-06T16:24:00.000-06:00

January 6, 2007 - into Bangalore, Karnataka

A HARROWING RIDE INTO BANGALORE. One year ago, five of us who had started pedaling from Nagercoil, Tamil Nadu, India seven days earlier, arrived in Bangalore, Karnataka. Bangalore is a city of 10 million souls--and it seemed like they were all on National Highway 7, our route into the metropolis. A far cry from the light traffic in rural areas, we were in thick traffic all the way into Bangalore. Once in the city, our host led us on his motorcycle to a guest house. “Led us” means that we wound our way through four lanes of traffic packed with all sorts of vehicles, turning left and right, crossing lanes back and forth. Harrowing. And invigorating!

AFTER EIGHT DAYS. To this point, we had ridden an average of 110 kilometers (68 miles) a day for eight straight days. We were not exhausted, but we were certainly looking forward to a rest day. In Bangalore, we said farewell to our Tamil Nadu riders Jose and Anand. These young men from Nagercoil rode strong and had great humor; they would be the best Indian riders we would have with us on the six-week journey.

"CHAI?" We enjoyed chai several times each day--first thing in the morning, at mid-morning break, mid-afternoon break, and usually in the evening. Indian chai is hot Indian tea mixed with hot milk, spices, and lots of sugar. I suppose tea time in India is a tradition held over from English days. I drink generous amounts of coffee--black, no sugar--but I didn't have any coffee during this excursion. Indian chai won my taste and heart. I prefer Indian-style tea to what I know of English and American teas. I also prefer it to coffee. But, despite Gope sending me home with Indian tea and his own recipe, I can't match the native Indian taste (another good excuse for returning to India!) -- John Hay, Jr.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - BICYCLE AS A SHOP

2008-01-05T17:27:00.000-06:00

January 5, 2007 - to Hosur, Karnataka

CLIMB EVERY MOUNTAIN. “On the Eleventh Day of Christmas my True Love gave to me...” -- eleven mountains to climb! Out of 97 kilometers (60.5 miles) we pedaled on this day last year, over half were invested in mountain climbing. The toil brought us steadily up toward the metropolis of Bangalore. The ride took us out of the state of Tamil Nadu and into Karnataka. The language changed from Tamil to Kannada.

BIKE AS A SHOP. Throughout our trek through India, we were impressed by the diverse and practical use of bicycles. This fellow carried and sold water jugs of various sizes and styles on his bike. So, in addition to a 45-lb. bike, we figured he had at least an additional 120 lbs. to carry. Can you imagine the balance this takes? He won't go anywhere fast, but he'll have his shop with him when he gets to where he wants to go.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - HINDU PILGRIMS

2008-01-04T05:31:00.000-06:00

January 4, 2007 - to Dharmapuri, Tamil Nadu

FIRST HILL CLIMBS. We pedaled to within 90 miles of Bangalore on this day in January 2007. Along the way, we encountered our first major climb, a 3 kilometer-long climb up into a high plane. I thought the steep hill would never end. Half way up the hill we encountered monkeys for the first time. A group of fifteen or so of the critters were frolicking by the roadside. We were too focused on making it up the hill to stop and take photos. Near the top, a roadside vendor was selling coconuts, so we drank coconut milk and ate some of the soft center before carrying on.

HINDUS ON PILGRIMAGE. We also encountered a group of Hindu pilgrims on their way to a religious festival. These devotees were kind enough to pose for Joe James' camera. Not sure how far they had to go, but they were making the journey on foot. Hinduism is incredibly diverse in its forms, expressions and intensities of devotion by Indians. Some take its claims and religious rituals quite radically; others seem to shrug it off. I note that the same can be said of American Christians. -- John Hay, Jr.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - BIKES EVERYWHERE

2008-01-03T19:43:00.000-06:00

January 3, 2007 - from Dindigul to Namakkal, Tamil Nadu

RIDING A TAILWIND. This day one year ago, Bob Yardy, Joe James, Indian riders Jose and Anand and I pedaled 74 miles to Namakkal in Tamil Nadu. It was our best day of riding to date. We had a tailwind and it seemed like we were riding on clouds. Each day brought us closer to Bangalore, "the Silicon Valley of India." Our goal was to arrive in Bangalore on our seventh day of riding for two days of rest and transition.

INTRIGUED BY OUR BIKES. Everywhere we stopped for a rest or for lunch, people--young and old alike--gathered around to look at our bikes and gear. 99% of bicycles in India are single-speed with heavy, one-size-fits-all frames. Our bikes have 21 gears. Folks closely examined our derailleurs, gear-shifters, cycle computers, helmets, pedals, gear shifts, and my aero bars. Some would lift our bikes, finding them very lightweight, and make excited comments to each other.

PEDAL SUPREMACY. Bikes form the backbone of basic transportation in India. They are not used for recreation, but for personal, family, and business mobility purposes. There are still more bikes on the 2,000 miles of roads we traveled than autos, trucks and motorbikes combined. It is likely that motorized vehicles are becoming much more prevalent, but they have not yet overtaken the standard bicycle. -- John Hay, Jr.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - FEAST FOR THE SENSES

2008-01-02T17:43:00.000-06:00

January 2, 2007 - to Dindigul, Tamil Nadu

FROM FRIGID TO HOT. As I shoveled a fresh layer of snow off our sidewalk this morning in 5-degree (Fahrenheit) temperature with the windchill factor hovering at -15, I longed to be in India. There, one year ago on this day, I would have been pedaling along in a short-sleeve jersey and shorts in 90-degree temperatures under a cloudless sky. Here in Indianapolis, I dress in layers for warmth even as the frigid air takes my breath away.

A FEAST FOR THE SENSES. The trek from the outskirts of Madurai to Dindigul on January 2, 2007 was a mere 74 kilometers--our shortest ride day to that point. But even a brief ride in India is still a feast for the senses. You know it's the 21st century because of the aluminum-frame bike, the GPS unit on the handlebars and the cell phone at your side, but the ox-drawn wagon, the women carrying water jars from the hand-pump well and the mill grinding in the village makes you feel like you're in another millenia. This is the reality of India today. Ancient and modern, simple and complex, sheltered and exposed, naive and knowing, rich and poor. And all profound. -- John Hay, Jr.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - "HAPPY NEW YEAR!"

2008-01-01T08:08:00.000-06:00

January 1, 2007 - to Madurai, Tamil Nadu

HAPPY NEW YEAR! We pedaled over 87 miles along National Highway 7 in the state of Tamil Nadu, India on New Year's Day 2007. And in every village and town we heard the cheerful greeting, "Happy New Year!" Perhaps this is only one of a few words or phrases many Tamil Nadu residents know in English, but it was related with gusto.

GOING TO SCHOOL. The happy greetings heartened us on our third day--one of our longest--of riding south to north, right through the center of India. Throughout the six-week ride, we encountered many uniformed school children waiting for buses and walking together to school in the towns. These boys were pretty excited to be in front of the camera. Photo by Joe James

Thanks for your interest in our effort to raise awareness and support to rebuild Umri Christian Hospital in Umri, Yavatmal, India

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - NEW YEAR'S EVE

2007-12-31T18:46:00.000-06:00

December 31, 2006 - to Palayamkottai, Tamil Nadu

A SOUL FEAST. Pedaling along Indian roads is a feast for the eyes and soul. Taking in what is unusual becomes usual. Before long, you come to expect nothing less than another encounter that is beyond anything within range of normal in Western mentality. I was impressed by rich colors in women's dress, by great banyan trees, vast rice fields, hard working laborers, deep poverty, ingenuity and gracious hospitality.

NEW YEAR'S EVE. After riding all day, we spent New Year's Eve in Palayamkottai, Tamil Nadu We were guests at a school for deaf children that is operated by the Church of South India. We stayed on the second floor of dorm with a balony overlooking the main street, from which we could observe the New Year's Eve revelry. The evening is celebrated much the same as it is in America. We were awakened throughout the night by the sound of fireworks.

BICYCLE REPAIR. We strolled through a market in Palayamkottai and came across this bicycle repairman. I watched him repair a flat inner tube without taking the wheel off the bike. I'd never seen that before. His repair shop was just a place on the ground with his few tools and supplies around him. Simple. He must have been good, for his services were in great demand.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - A TSUNAMI-RESPONSE YOUTH HOSTEL

2007-12-30T18:55:00.000-06:00

December 30, 2006 - to Anandapuram, Tamil Nadu

RIDING TO A YOUTH HOSTEL. I distinctly remember these two little girls at the youth hostel in Anandapuram, Tamil Nadu, India. After pedaling 75 miles from Nagercoil (via Kanniyakumari and Cape Comorin--the southern tip of India), we rode our bikes onto their campus on December 29. We spent the evening and enjoyed their singing, dancing and drama the next day before continuing our journey toward Bangalore.

TSUNAMI REPONSE. Many of the 200+ children who live at the youth hostel are part of families that suffered the full impact of the Indian Ocean tsunami in 2004. This Free Methodist hostel expanded quickly in response to the tsunami. Children live free of charge at the youth hostel (thanks to those who sponsor children for $21 per month through International Child Care Ministries) and attend local public schools. They return to their families for holidays and summer break. The level of care and Christian witness here is truly admirable. -- John Hay, Jr.

Photo by Joe James

MAY WE SHARE OUR EXPERIENCE WITH YOUR GROUP?

2007-03-13T09:11:00.000-05:00

We recently completed riding over 2,000 miles on bicycles across India. The journey yielded personal insights and cultural awareness about this incredible land and its people. We found it breathtaking and inspiring!

We’ve prepared a brief but engaging multi-media presentation about the journey. It's both educational and inspiring. We're available on a limited basis to share it with school students, civic and service organizations, auxiliary groups and congregations. Our purpose is simply to share the experience. There is no cost. If you think this experience and presentation could be helpful, interesting, and/or inspiring in your setting, please contact John Hay, Jr. We will be honored to adapt it specifically (age, time, group, setting appropriate) to share with your group.

Some info about Bicycle India 2007:

An international team of 5 riders cycling over 2,000 miles in 6 weeks – Dec. 30, ’06 to Feb. 8, ‘07
Bicycled an average of 100 kilometers (62 miles) each day
From the southern tip of India (Kaniyakimari) on the Indian Ocean to New Delhi – south to north
Our purpose was to raise awareness and funds to rebuild a small charitable hospital in central India
We blogged (scroll down and link to past posts) each day – many photos and daily encounters
Fuller information about the project is at www.bikeindia.org
Stayed at the home of Mahatma Gandhi on India’s Republic Day - January 26
Visited ancient forts, the Taj Mahal, and many culturally significant sites
Witnessed the dynamic development of India’s cities and economy juxtaposed to profound poverty
Observed the vast cultural, religious, and geographic diversity of India
Found the range of mobility and urban development intriguing
Encountered a wide variety of animals, agricultural settings, and village life
India hosts one fifth of the world’s population in a land one third the size of the United States

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. We welcome your friendly comments and questions. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

BACK IN THE SADDLE

2007-02-19T08:20:00.000-06:00

JOE & SANJAY UPDATE. Joe James returned to the states on Friday evening, February 16. We also now know that Sanjay Sumadre arrived safely in Yavatmal, India, after delivering Bob and John to the Delhi international airport on February 10.

TRANSITIONING. All of us are back in the saddle...a saddle of a different sort. Instead of a bicycle saddle, we're back in the saddle of our various vocations and callings. We're dealing with lingering time adjustments. We're transitioning to a much colder climate and the reality of snow. We're savoring the experience of six weeks and 2,000 miles on a bicycle in India. Hard to believe it's behind us. Now we look forward to completing our mission: making every effort to see the full $600,000 raised to rebuild Umri Christian Hospital.

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back for updates. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

MAKING IT HOME

2007-02-11T16:25:00.000-06:00

BOB & JOHN HOME SAFELY. We're happy to report that the team members scheduled to return to the USA on Saturday--Bob Yardy and John Hay, Jr.--made it home safely. Flying out of Delhi on Saturday morning, they arrived with theirs and Joe James' boxed bikes at Chicago O'Hare early in the evening. Unfortunately, their bags were in one of the 747's cargo bays with a jammed door that took several hours to open. John's baggage was later flown on to Indianapolis and Bob's was shipped to Champaign, Illinois.

JOE STILL IN INDIA. Joe flew from Delhi to Hyderabad early Saturday morning for a week of administrative meetings there. It won't be a week of biking, that's for sure. He is scheduled to conclude his extended journey in India on Saturday. We have not yet received word from our guide Sanjay Sumadre as to whether or not he arrived back in Yavatmal.

CONTRASTS STRIKE US. What a contrast in weather and culture Bob and John are experiencing. From 85 degrees (Fahrenheit) and sunshine to frigid temperatures and snow on the ground... with more expected across Illinois and Indiana early this week. From a land were simple living is the rule to a place where heightend pace and pressure assert their impact on individuals, families, institutions, and communities. Still, it is home and we're glad to be here.

GRATEFUL. We're inestimably grateful for what we have been privileged to experience over the past six weeks. Grateful, also, for all who have encouraged us, prayed for us, supported the project, and worked faithfully behind the scenes. As we debrief and assess the project, we will be sharing our thoughts and offering specific "thanks" in coming days and weeks. Stay tuned!
Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. We welcome your friendly comments and questions. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

END OF THE ROAD

2007-02-09T05:27:00.000-06:00

We celebrated at the India Gate in the heart of old Delhi on Friday afternoon. We started back on December 30, 2006 in Nagercoil, rode south to the southern tip of India, and then made our way north to Delhi. We're finished with our riding, but the project ot rebuild Umri Christian Hospital continues. We hope you will be a part of it's future. Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

WE MADE IT...3,200 KILOMETERS / 2,000 MILES

2007-02-08T17:19:00.000-06:00

POST #38

FOG. We rode north out of Kosi in a serious fog. Objects were not visible until about 30 feet in front of you. It was eerie and dangerous. We thought the fog would lift soon, but it persisted most of the way to Delhi. The moisture soaked our clothing and the spray covered our bikes. But it’s not likely anything could have dimmed our spirits or deterred us from making this last day of our cycling journey a bright one.

INTO DELHI. The sun burned the fog away by the time we reached the outskirts of Delhi, the capital city of India. We stopped at our hotel just long enough for Sanjay to drop the trailer and register. The three of us plowed our bikes through thick traffic, our experience of pedaling thru Bangalore, Hyderabad and Nagpur serving us well. We were tired from the day’s 75-mile / 120-kilometer ride, but we were psyched as we rode into Delhi. We’d studied the map of the city enough to know where we wanted to go. This is just about the only time on the trip that Sanjay didn’t need to guide us.

CELEBRATING AT INDIA GATE. We headed straight for the India Gate in old Delhi as our “finish line.” The India Gate is a massive arch, memorializing all India’s war dead. It stands at one end of a grand boulevard on the scale of the National Mall in Washington, D.C. At the opposite end of Rajpath Marg are the Presidential buildings and India’s Parliament (we also visited these sites). Once we reached the India Gate, we lifted our bikes over our heads and celebrated the completion of the cycling portion of our journey. We’d ridden over 2,000 miles / 3,200 kilometers since starting in Nagercoil on December 30. We have much for which to be grateful.

YET TO BE COMPLETED. The cycling portion of “Bicycle India 2007” is complete. The investment portion of the project continues. Until $600,000 is raised for rebuilding Umri Christian Hospital, we will continue to pray for UCH’s revitalization, share about the mission, encourage contributions, enlist more people in involvement, and spread the story. We’re grateful for every donation that has thus far been shared. God bless you. We’re trusting that individuals, families, congregations, service organizations, and charitable contributing entities will see the value of UCH and share in its future.

THANK YOU. We will continue to post to this blog and update all who have been supporting, praying, investing, and serving. Thank you for your prayers and encouragement all along the way. What a difference you have made. God bless you! Namaste!
Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. Learn more @ http://www.bikeindia.org/.

INDIAN MAN

2007-02-07T06:58:00.000-06:00

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

RAIN, FLATS & PROGRESS TO NEW DELHI

2007-02-07T06:47:00.000-06:00

POST #37

RAIN IN AGRA. It began raining in Agra last night around 9:00 pm. A thunderstorm went through in the middle of the night. When daybreak came, light rain, wet pavement, puddles, and mud greeted us. O, what a gloriously muddy mess we and our bikes were in by midmorning. But the rain stopped, the clouds cleared, and by midday the sun had dried the roadway. It’s been our only opportunity to use the raingear we’ve been hauling thru India. We half expected rain in the extreme south, but not this far north. Photo: In the early morning rain and gray skies, Sanjay and Bob wait for some riders to catch up.

FLATS and MORE FLATS. It was our day for flat tires. John punctured and repaired quickly. Joe hit a piece of glass that cut his tire, which took a bit more time to repair (the tire will be replaced this evening). Then John’s back tire went down...again. This time we found the culprit: the same tiny shard of glass imbedded in the tire surface. Three flats in a day after only two punctures in over 1,900 miles…interesting. Cross-country cycling requires readiness to quickly repair flat tires and access extra tires and supplies. Thanks to Bob for thinking well and ahead on these things. Photo: Vijay, age 65, talks about road conditions with our Shereesh, our host from Mumbai.

NEXT TO LAST DAY OF RIDING. We pedaled 108 kilometers / 66 miles to a little town on National Highway 2 called Kosi on this our next to last day of cycling in India. The roads have become familiar to us. We’ve become quite adept at the Indian “rules of the road.” We’re accustomed to the diverse activity on the roadsides. We feel like we are part of it and it is a part of us. There are hardly any more unique visuals that we haven’t already captured on photo or video clips. Still, the thought that we will not be riding these roads—Seals and Crofts’ song “We May Never Pass this Way Again” comes to mind—puts us in a wistful but grateful frame of mind. Photo: Evidence of rainy and muddy conditions on John's bike.

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

MAUSOLEUMS, MOSQUES & FORTS

2007-02-06T07:27:00.000-06:00

Here's a mish-mash of photos from today's activities in Agra and out on the road. It was a day full of visiting mausoleums (the Taj Mahal is one...and everything it's cracked up to be), forts, and adjacent mosques. We'll be back on the road to New Delhi on Wednesday. By the way, the last photo is a neatly (artfully?) stacked pile of dried cow/buffalo chips...ready for use as fuel. Biofuel!

TO AGRA

2007-02-05T09:19:00.000-06:00

POST #36

GWALIOR TO AGRA. We rode 127 kilometers / 78 miles from Gwalior to Agra today. Except for some exceptionally rough road right at the edge of Agra, the roadway was smooth and four-land most of the day. We have pedaled 2,833 kilometers / 1,756 miles since December 30th. With only two full days of riding--plus shorter tours around Agra and Delhi--our cycling days in India are numbered. We came across our Swiss cycling friend Sebastien just outside Agra and rode into the city of 1.2 million people with him. Photo: Raju from Mumbai rides north at sunrise.

THE BANDIT QUEEN. We passed through the Indian “Badlands” about 60 kilometers / 40 miles south of Agra. This is a miniature of the North American Badlands in South Dakota. This area is famous in India for being the hideout and raiding territory of “the Bandit Queen,” for which a historical novel is written. Abused by a landowner as a girl and having watched her father’s land taken from him, Phoolan Devi became something of an Indian Robin Hood. She and her gang would hide in the craggy Badlands and hold up trucks along National Highway 3. She avoided capture for years, taunting pursuing police. Eventually Phoolan Devi confessed, repented, surrendered and was jailed. After her release, she became a member of Parliament. Her amazing story ends tragically: she was assassinated. Photo: The Indian "Badlands" south of Agra, historic hideout for "The Bandit Queen" and her gang.

AGRA AND THE TAJ MAHAL. We can now say we’ve seen the Taj Mahal. There it is, in the hazy distance, its dome just visible between two hotel buildings across the street from our place of lodging. I suppose that’s like saying you’ve seen the Statue of Liberty from the jet on its landing approach to LaGuardia airport. You’ve seen it but not experienced it. Tomorrow, we hope to get a much closer look at this architectural wonder. John’s desire to ride his bike down the steps of the Taj Mahal doesn’t sound like it’s going to be possible, however. No bikes allowed! Not even shoes!

SUPER BOWL UPDATE. On the way to Agra, we checked in on the Super Bowl via phone a few times. John would stop at a roadside ISD phone, pay the equivalent of 50 cents, and get an update from his son, Jared. So, while we do not know much about the game itself, we do know that the Colts won (YEA!) 29-17 and that Peyton Manning is the MVP. We can't imagine what is happening in Indy this week. Pay dirt at last!

Here are a few more photos from today:

ON TO GWALIOR...NEARER NEW DELHI

2007-02-03T03:25:00.000-06:00

POST #35

JHANSI KEE RANI. We had a bit of a history lesson before leaving the city of Jhansi this morning. Our hosts told us that Jhansi was the beginning point of India’s freedom movement against Great Britain in 1857. The story goes that a 22-year old woman named Laxmi Bai, the recent widow of the area’s Maharaja (territorial prince), rallied the town to fight the British when they tried to seize control of the area after her husband’s death. Agreements between the Maharajas and the British stated that Indians would maintain control of an area as long as there was an heir. Laxmi Bai was childless, but she and her husband had adopted a son. Upon the Maharaja’s death, the British refused to recognize the child as the next prince and moved to take control. Rallying the town to resist the British and fight for their freedom, the people occupied the local hillside fort. A traitor in their midst opened the gates and the British forces flooded in. Laxmi Bai, with her child on her back and a horse under her, leaped from the high fort wall and escaped to continue the freedom challenge. She is revered as Jhansi kee Rani…the Queen of Jhansi. Photo: Statue of Laxmi Bai in the city where she made her stand against the British...Jhansi

MEETING SEBASTIEN. Our 100-kilometer / 62-mile ride north from Jhansi to Gwalior was smooth, but not uneventful. Riding through a small town, a young man from Lausanne, Switzerland named Sebastien rode up beside John. He rode with us and ate lunch with us. We learned that he had ridden alone from Katmandu, Nepal and was touring India, eventually intending to ride to Kolkata. He left us after lunch, but we came across him not long after—his bike had broken down. We hoisted his bike on the trailer and took him on in to Gwalior. Bob spent the next three hours taking apart and repairing his back wheel hub and gear assembly. The bike is now nearly good as new (great work, Bob!) and Sebastien will be able to continue his trek. Best wishes, friend!

TEAM CHANGE. Gwalior is the location for our last exchange of Indian team members. We are saying farewell to host Ashok Sejaho and riders Yogish and Mashremkar (at 65 years of age, he’s been our oldest rider. Great job!). We welcome for the last stage of our journey a cadre from Mumbai (Bombay): host Shereesh Ahaley and riders Beejay and Raja. We look forward to getting on the road to New Delhi with them first thing Monday morning. Tomorrow, Sunday, is an official rest day. A few of us may take a 60 km training ride / excursion in the afternoon, but not in the direction of Agra or New Delhi. Photo: Joe poses for a photo with some children who were playing cricket in a sand lot near the road. As soon as they saw a camera, the game was over...they came running.

CHILD AND CHICKEN

2007-02-02T05:47:00.000-06:00

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FROM LALITPUR TO JHANSI

2007-02-02T05:27:00.000-06:00

POST #34

COLD START, WARM FINISH. The road leading north from Lalitpur was smooth. We’re thankful for simple gifts at this point…like a relatively smooth road. When we began at 6:45 am the temperature was 52 degrees Fahrenheit; our fingers were numb and we were chilled (we know this sounds like whining to those of you mired in freezing temps, but it’s all relative, right?). But by 9:00 am it was 70; by noon it was over 80 degrees. Yep, an American Midwestern September day. The 96 kilometers / 60 miles went by uneventfully and quickly. We were in Jhansi, our day’s destination, by 12:30 pm. Photo: Yogish warms up his hands by the fire at our early morning roadside tea stop.

MARIA ACKERMAN HOYT MEMORIAL HOSPITAL. We are hosted again by a Christian hospital, one of a network of Christian hospitals across India. The Maria Ackerman Hoyt Memorial Hospital has 110 beds, a nursing school, and gifted medical staff. They serve the city and surrounding countryside’s poor. Photo: A young Indian cyclist. Will he ride 2,000 miles across his homeland someday?

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

SEVEN THINGS WE THINK ABOUT

2007-02-01T05:24:00.000-06:00

POST #33

SEVEN THINGS WE NEVER THINK ABOUT IN NORTH AMERICA BUT ASK EACH DAY WHILE CYCLING IN INDIA

1. “Is this water purified? Are you sure?” We drink only sealed bottled water.

2. If water is not coming from a faucet: “Where is the nearest well with a hand pump?” Makes you appreciate running water.

3. Because hot water is not usually readily on tap: “Do you have a hand-held electric water heating rod that I may use?” Makes you appreciate water heaters.

4. Daily reminder to oneself: “Have I taken my malaria prevention pill today?”

5. At an eatery (unless you choose to eat Indian style): “Do you have forks or spoons available?”

6. Because rolling blackouts occur throughout the country: “What hours of the day will electricity not be available?” Imagine planning your business around this. Honda has made a haul selling petrol-powered generators across the nation.

7. John’s daily quest: “Internet? Cyber café?” If you’re reading this, we found one in the town this day.

FROM SAGAR TO LALITPUR. We rode 116 kilometers / 70.5 miles today on more rough roads from Sagar to Lalitpur. Not so many potholes as uneven and patched tarmac. Our new team of Indian riders got an immediate baptism in riding such a distance in a day. Yogish, a young man from Nagpur, experienced only our second tire puncture in over 2,400 km today. John fell on an earthen detour while trying to avoid rocks—his third spill of the journey (no injuries except to his pride). Also, one of our Indian riders fell (again, no injuries).

HARRIET BENSON MEMORIAL HOSPITAL. We left the state of Madhya Pradesh and entered the state of Uttar Pradesh, inching us nearer to New Delhi. We are privileged to be hosted in the guest house of the Harriet Benson Memorial Hospital here in Lalitpur. This is our second evening to be guests of Christian hospitals (other than Umri Christian Hospital) initiated by missionaries external to India and now led by Indian medical and operations staff. These hospitals have an important medical mission in serving the poorest of the poor with caring and quality medical care. Photo: Children from a migrant family camping near our lodging.

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PREDICAMENT

2007-01-31T06:52:00.000-06:00

Figure this one out.

Q: How do you get a cow's hoof out of the spokes of your bicycle without harming the cow or the bicycle?

A:Very carefully.

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ON THE INDIAN ROADWAY

2007-01-31T06:02:00.000-06:00

POST #32

Here’s some of what our eyes take in along the road or roadside each day:

Women and children carrying heavy bundles of wood or water

A boy and/or older man driving a herd of goats or cattle

Uniformed school girls and boys walking or waiting for the bus

Lone cows or water buffalo meandering aimlessly

Cow pies and goat droppings (watch…and swerve!)

A few pigs and piglets rooting around

Varieties of birds pecking at road kill or grain

Massive banyan, locust and other shade trees

Bicycles transporting water, wood, quilts, rugs, jugs, eggs, etc.

Motor scooters and motorcycles carrying an entire family
Auto rickshaws bulging with goods and/or people

Overloaded buses, SUVs and Willy’s Jeeps traveling at fast speeds

Trucks with ear-piercing horns traveling just a bit less fast

An overturned truck and a broken-down bus

Ox-pulled carts loaded with sugarcane or grain

Tractor-pulled trailers loaded with sugarcane or grain

Fruit and vegetable vendors squatting on the roadside

Tea stalls (keep riding, keep riding…)

People walking together--men holding men’s hands; women holding women’s hands

Shrines large and small, well-kept and deteriorating

A few disheveled vagabonds or holy men sauntering alone

HIGHWAYS OF HUMAN INTEREST. For human interest, Indian roadways beat the endless monotony of a U.S. Interstate or state highway—hands down. Forget cruise control. Don’t you dare try to talk on a cell phone. Both hands will be necessary—one for the steering wheel and one for honking the horn. In the rural areas driving’s a challenge; in the cities it’s gauntlet not for the weak of heart.

EXTRA JAUNT

2007-01-30T22:20:00.000-06:00

TO THE NON-WATER WATERFALL AND BACK. It was our rest day, but while Bob tuned up bikes, Joe and John headed out for some sight-seeing on bicycles. We rode 25 miles to see a regionally famous waterfall. We had a great ride and anticipated the sight. We got there and there were great rock formations. But, alas, no water coming over the waterfall. We must come back in August during monsoon, we guess. We had another 25-mile ride back to Sagar savoring our fun tour.

TO SAGAR

2007-01-30T10:19:00.000-06:00

POST #31

TO SAGAR…ROUGHLY. Today’s ride was just about as rough as yesterday’s. Maybe it seemed that way because we were still sore from yesterday. Thus far, we’ve found National Highway 26 to be bone jarring. The good news is: NH 26 is being upgraded to four lanes as we write. The tough news is: current construction makes a pot-hole riddled road worse for the moment. Still, we held up, our equipment held up (still only one flat tire for the trip!) and we made it safely to Sagar after 86 kilometers / 53 miles. We’ve ridden six straight days. We’ve put 2,388 km / 1,481 mi behind us. We’re ready for a rest day. Photo: John and Bob take a downhill fast!

THANKS, MVM. Our riding companions from Maharashtra Village Ministries left us after we arrived in Sagar. These riders, who were accompanied by MVM founder D. B. Kuhlothungen, rode well and brought great heart to our team from Nagpur to Sagar. Who can ever forget your spirited singing at 5:00 am? Thanks, guys. Best wishes to you, Kuhlo, MVM, and your families. We will welcome a new team of Indian riders and host when we start riding again on Thursday. Photo: a series of rapids under a bridge we crossed.

READY FOR THE LAST LEG. Our journey enters its last leg on Thursday. In a little over a week, we anticipate riding onto the streets of New Delhi. But the remaining 6 or 7 days of riding call for covering 812 kilometers / 503 miles. We’ve been told the road becomes less rough after Sagar. We hope so. Regardless, we’re determined to make it to New Delhi, whatever conditions we find. We’re in perseverance mode.

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. Learn more @ http://www.bikeindia.org/.

ROUGH ROAD

2007-01-29T02:26:00.000-06:00

POST #30

INTERNET AVAILABILITY. We are on the road and I (John) am in an Internet cafe in a town of which I do not know the name. This is the first Internet connection we have had since leaving Nagpur three days ago. So, the previous two posts are back-dated. Still, we are glad to be able to keep updating our friends as often as we can. Please keep checking back. Sometimes several days will appear at one time.

ROUGH ROAD. We left National Highway 7 this morning and started on National Highway 26. It gives new meaning to "highway." It is incredible rough. Mostly pavement. Some dirt. It is in the process of being upgraded to a four-lane highway. It is the "process" that makes it interesting on touring bikes. Mountain bikes would be useful today. But it IS a way...and we're doing just fine. No flats...a miracle!

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. We welcome your friendly comments and questions. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

TWO THIRDS OF THE WAY TO NEW DELHI

2007-01-28T02:24:00.000-06:00

POST #29

TWO THIRDS COMPLETE. We took time this morning to meet for Christian worship with an Anglican congregation in Seoni. The marking on the outside of the building indicated it was founded in 1878. One can only try to imagine the history and transitions of an Anglican community of faith in a small town in central India. The community graciously welcomed us and sent us on our way. We would surpass 1,333 km before the afternoon was over--we’re two thirds of the way to New Delhi!

AT LAKHNADON. Because we traveled 24 kilometers further than expected yesterday, today’s trek was shortened by that much. A brief 60 km / 40 mi this afternoon, including one more significant uphill climb, and we find ourselves in Lakhnadon. This is the junction at which we leave NH 7 and begin a northwest trek along NH 26. Here we have been welcomed into the guest house of the Lakhnadon Christian Hospital and Dr. Adarsh Bemn, a young physician who is investing his life here.

WHAT WE’RE EATING. We’re eating Indian food for all meals and it is agreeing with us all. It’s edly, dal, roti, dosa, samosas, toasted bread, and/or an omelet at a rustic roadside grill for breakfast. After 60 kilometers of pedaling, we stop at dirt-floor, tin-roof, open-air restaurant for a modest lunch of rice, chipatis, vegetable (or chicken or mutton) curry, and fruit. Each evening we reload our depleted energy with the same (or some soup and fried rice) at a local eatery. Our essential nutrition formula focuses on carbs and protein, with simple sugars for immediate energy. In addition, we eat bananas and whatever fresh fruit Sanjay selects from roadside markets. As we’re riding in 80-100 degree Fahrenheit temps, each of us takes in about 8 liters of bottled water a day. One occasional indulgence (okay, constant obsession) is to comb a village or town for mango jam or mango ice cream. It’s almost as good as Indian chai. Almost.

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. We welcome your friendly comments and questions. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

CITY TO FOREST...ALL IN A DAY'S RIDE

2007-01-27T02:22:00.000-06:00

POST #28

SIX LEGS OF OUR JOURNEY. We’ve pedaled 2,073 kilometers / 1,285 miles since December 30th. We’re closing in on two thirds of the journey behind us. If you break our 3,200 kilometer / 2,000 mile ride into six legs, they look like this:
Leg 1: Nagercoil to Bangalore - Dec 30-Jan 6
Leg 2: Bangalore to Hyderabad - Jan 8-13
Leg 3: Hyderabad to Umri - Jan 17-20
Leg 4: Umri to Nagpur - Jan 23-26
Leg 5: Nagpur to Sagar - Jan 27-31
Leg 6: Sagar to New Delhi - Feb 1-8
Photo: interested people gather around our bikes in front of a restaurant. We draw a crowd everywhere we go.

VILLAGE LIFE, URBAN SCENE. We’re now one day into the 5th leg of this journey from the southern tip of India to New Delhi. We started the morning with a team of fresh Indian riders from Maharashtra Village Ministries, riding thru the city of Nagpur (population approximately 2 million) before traffic became heavy. As interesting as passing village life is, a bike ride through an urban area is overwhelming. We’ve ridden through a thousand villages and only a handful of large cities, but because the city scene is so concentrated and intense, its impact lingers long on our senses. Photo: Bob repairs a man's flat tire. He rode off very happy!

BIG CLIMB, LONG RIDE. We continued north on NH 7 for 138 kilometers / 85.5 miles. This was 24 km / 15 mi further than we planned. But, after making the longest ascent of the tour (rising nearly 1,700 feet in a 10 km / 6.2 mi climb), the town we hoped to stay in overnight turned out to be a small village without lodging. Already tired from the tedious climb, our only recourse was to pedal another 24 km / 15 mi to a town called Seoni. We arrived safely, though weary. This was a tough first-day challenge for our now not-so-fresh Indian riders.

FORESTS AND HIGHER GROUND. We passed through much forest area today. Villages were fewer and further between, but the rolling forest areas were shady and full of wildlife. This woodland area, on the border between the states of Maharashtra and Madhya Pradesh, transitions from lower to a significantly higher terrain. The vistas along our big climb were grand. After the ascent, we thought we would have the benefit of a long, fast downhill flight. But there was no descent; 24 km later, we‘re still on high ground.

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

TO NAGPUR ON REPUBLIC DAY

2007-01-26T18:46:00.000-06:00

POST #27

REPUBLIC DAY ALL ALONG THE WAY. Every town and village we rode through on our way to Nagpur today was having a parade or celebrating. It is Republic Day in India. On this day in 1950 the nation, which gained its independence non-violently from England just three years earlier (on August 15, 1947), became a republic. India is now the world’s largest democracy. You can tell that Indians are very proud of their country and its growing place among nations. It is written on their faces and in the intensity of their patriotism on this day. We celebrated with them, flying the India flag on our bicycles. Photo: Boys celebrate in a Republic Day parade.

WARMING UP TO NAGPUR. The day started very chilly at Gandhi’s ashram at Sevagram. Temperatures hovered in the high 50s (Fahrenheit) until the sun climbed into a clear sky. By mid-morning it was hot and getting hotter. This weather reminds us of early September days in the American Midwest. Our 42-mile / 68-kilometer ride was complete before noon, even with two occasions of greetings by local well-wishers. We are in lodging in Nagpur, a major city that is likely closest to being the geographic center of India. This is the last major city we will pass thru before Agra and the New Delhi/Delhi area.

THANKS TO OUR FRIENDS. We’re grateful for the companionship of President Justus and the four cyclists from Yavatmal College for Leadership Training, who have ridden with us from Yavatmal to Nagpur. It’s always great to see folks in academia engage in a little sport—this time in support of Umri Christian Hospital. We’re also grateful for the welcome we received from folks from the Nagpur area Free Methodist congregations and from the team at Maharashtra Village Ministries. Photo: children play at a well near Nagpur...the well and school are facilitated by MVM

NOW IS THE TIME TO CONTRIBUTE. We want to be clear: the focus of this ride is not about five people riding from the southern tip of India to New Delhi on bicycles. The ride only serves to heighten awareness of Umri Christian Hospital and to call for friends from all over the world to contribute to its reconstruction. Have you made a donation yet? If so, thank you! If not, please consider doing so now. If you live in India and have friends in North America or other places, please call them and encourage them to give at this time. If you know of someone who would be willing to support our cause or effort, now is the time to contact them and encourage contributions—great and small. We appreciate the fact that many people are praying for our safety—and we are grateful for that. If you are praying for us, would you consider shaping your prayers toward the needed resources to reconstruct Umri Christian Hospital? Photo: riders offer brochures about UCH to inquiring people we pass by.

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

TO GANDHI'S HOME FOR REPUBLIC DAY

2007-01-25T07:35:00.000-06:00

POST #26

FROM YAVATMAL TO WARDHA. We were sent off by Yavatmal College for Leadership Training early this morning. Also, four boys from a local "Awana" youth program accompanied us on bicycles to the edge of the city. What fun! Five Indian riders are accompanying us to Nagpur; they are from YCLT. One is the institution President Justus; three are teachers at the college; one is a student. They all made the 70-kilometer/42 mile journey quite well.

AT GANDHI’S HOME. We passed through Wardha, a major intra-India train exchange depot, and rode on to a little place called Sevagram. Sevagram became the rural home of Mahatma Gandhi in 1936. From this quiet place Gandhi not only practiced the simple, powerful principles of his convictions, but led India in a non-violent manner until England left in 1947. Gandhi led India to Independence without a shot being fired. Three years later the Indian democracy was established on January 26, 1950; Republic Day is commemorated across India with great affection. It seems fitting that we should begin Republic Day at Gandhi’s home tomorrow.

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

COTTON CITY

2007-01-24T07:25:00.000-06:00

POST #25

A DAY IN "COTTON CITY." It’s been a scheduled administrative day for Joe in Yavatmal. While Joe was in meetings with regional leaders, Bob and John traipsed around this city of 500,000 inhabitants. Yavatmal is known as "Cotton City" because it is in the heart of cotton production in India. We’ve seen piles of cotton over two stories high. Yavatmal is also home to the first Free Methodist Church in India. The "mother church" is over 100 years old and still thriving. The pastor and his family hosted us for lunch in their parsonage today.

SANJAY’S HOMETOWN. Yavatmal is also the home of Sanjay "Gope" Samudre, our professional driver and guide for "Bicycle India 2007." Sanjay and his family hosted John, Bob and Donna Yardy, and Sherrill Yardy for tea and refreshments in their home today. He and Ujwala, a surgical nurse, happen to serve the best chai in India…a touch of ginger and easy on the sugar. Sanjay has driven many people all over India for decades, but "Bicycle India 2007" is the longest single journey in terms of days and kilometers/miles that he has ever undertaken. We heartily recommend his caring service to all!

HOSTED AT YCLT. While Bob and Donna have been staying at Shanti Bhavan, John, Joe and Marilyn have been staying at Hannun House, a guest house on the campus of Yavatmal College for Leadership Training. YCLT has a 2,000-student school, a boarding school for indigenous missionaries’ children, and a bachelor’s level college for theology and ministry students. The hospitality here has been gracious. YCLT President Justus and several students plan to ride with us to Nagpur over the next few days. We welcome their company and hope the journey is an inspiration to many.

TO NAGPUR…AND BEYOND! This was last day of "official" responsibilities for us. We hit the road tomorrow in earnest, hoping to reach Nagpur by Friday afternoon. We plan to meet with local leaders in Nagpur on Friday evening. We will also say farewell to Marilyn James and Donna Yardy in Nagpur. From there they will fly home to the USA, exchanging sunshine and 85-degree Fahrenheit temperatures in central India for freezing temps and four inches of snow in the American heartland. After Nagpur, we will be relatively on our own on up to New Delhi. Relatively, we say, because we know that many people are supporting us with prayers. We believe that makes a big difference.

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SHARING THE ROAD

2007-01-23T07:22:00.000-06:00

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FROM UMRI TO YAVATMAL

2007-01-23T06:57:00.000-06:00

POST #24

FAREWELL TO UMRI. We received an early-morning send-off by the students of the Helen Rose School of Nursing. Having covered 1,762.5 kilometers / 1,093 miles, we traveled the relatively short distance of 60 kilometers / 37 miles before noon. Our destination: Yavatmal, a thriving town that represents the beginning point of Free Methodist work in India over 100 years ago.

YARDY FAMILY MEMBERS RIDE. We were joined by several guest riders for this stretch, including Donna Yardy (pictured below with husband Bob), David Yardy, and a researcher named Karie. We have enjoyed guest riders from time to time. Today was the first time we had two women riding in the group.

WELCOMED TO YAVATMAL. A group of local leaders welcomed us at the edge of town and escorted us by motorcycles to Shanti Bavan, the FM guest house and administrative center. There we were graced again with garlands and many well wishes. We are made to feel like some kind of special dignitaries, but we know full well that we are simply riding our bikes thru India in support of the people who have for many years dedicated themselves to a healing medical service in this area. They have shouldered a heavy financial burden; we are simply trying to bear it with them. Will you also help share the load? Together, it will be lighter for all and a promising future of professional medical service will be advanced.

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. We welcome your friendly comments and questions. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

INTEREST IN THE VIDEO CAMERA

2007-01-22T07:30:00.000-06:00

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VISION AND DEVELOPMENT AT UMRI

2007-01-22T05:15:00.000-06:00

ORIGINATING COMPASSION. Umri Christian Hospital and its related onsite educational and outreach institutions are the stuff of an evolving vision. Christian compassion opened a place of care and healing on these 25 acres over a generation ago. The spirit of compassion--ebbing and flowing over the decades--has brought complementary additions to the core hospital service. Today an entire campus of healing, education, and service pulses with that originating vision.

UCH...A CENTER OF CARE. Umri Christian Hospital offers free professional medical care to thousands of villagers in this central India region. Drs. John and Jennifer Pratap have been busy all weekend with patients-- responding to emergencies, delivering a baby on Sunday morning, and attending to patients for whom medical care would otherwise be available only far away. The medical staff sees many people with tuberculosis and complications related to it. They treat folks with malaria and other preventable diseases. The outpatient clinic has been busy all day. Staff also attends to a growing number of HIV/AIDS cases, but without immediate access to medications that are readily available elsewhere. They work with short supplies and in less than optimum conditions. The buildings were built before 1920. We believe a new hospital facility will regenerate strength at the core of this campus and impact every related service.

HELEN ROSE SCHOOL OF NURSING. The Helen Rose School of Nursing was founded just a few years ago by Jacob and Esther Amirson--two compassionate, competent visionaries. It has grown exponentially, now enrolls 100 low-income students, and is recognized by Indian nursing educators. This award-winning nursing school works with students who cannot afford other nursing schools. It has a special outreach to young women who are victims of family trauma. Students learn at the hospital and serve in outreach in the surrounding communities.

BETHEL CHILDREN'S HOME/HOSTEL. More than 200 children live at Bethel Children's Home on the UCH campus. While some of these children are orphaned, many live here and go to public school in the community as very hopeful option for parents who cannot afford to feed, clothe, and care for them at home year-round. Supported by the modest monthly commitments of people who contribute to the International Childcare Ministries of the Free Methodist Church, these children are accessing education and care that offers a promising future for their lives.

YARDY ENGLISH MEDIUM SCHOOL. An English Medium School education is an important resource for advancing well in higher education in India. At YES, also on the UCH campus, core education is taught in native languages as well as in English--a highly portable resource for future employment and service. We visited this school and talked with students--it is very impressive.

A CALL FOR PARTNERS. All of these organizations serve at a fraction of the cost of similar medical treatment and education in North America. Striking to us is the dedication of staff and leaders to their mission despite a very tight financial situation. We believe this heroic service deserves an investment in capital improvement as well as a growing base of intranational and international partners committed to ensuring ongoing, high-quality professional medical care in this very specific place of vision and Christian care. We hope you will, in one way or another, become one of those partners.

UMRI -- CENTRAL TO OUR PURPOSE

2007-01-21T04:08:00.000-06:00

POST #22

CENTRAL IN OUR HEARTS. On our "Bicycle India 2007" logo, three locations are pinpointed: NAGERCOIL, our southern India beginning point; NEW DELHI, our anticipated destination to the north; in between is a village that can't be found on most maps--UMRI. This village, located two kilometers off NH7 in the eastern portion of Maharashtra state, is the home of a significant charity hospital, nursing school, youth hostel, and an English medium school. As far as our ride thru India is concerned, UMRI is central in our minds and hearts. That's where we headed today.

APPROACHING UMRI. We pedaled out of Adilabad around 6:45 am this morning. We rode north on NH7 in anticipation of reaching the village of Umri before noon. We easily covered the 60 km / 37 mi by 11:00 am. The six of us rode the last two kilometers in close formation, watching for the Umri Christian Hospital campus to come into view. For Bob, who was born at Umri in 1952, it was to be a long-awaited homecoming. For the rest of the team, it was to be a chance to see firsthand together the hospital for which we have thus far ridden over 1,700 km / 1,054 mi in the past three weeks.

HOMECOMING WELCOME. Near the hospital, we were greeted on the road by children from the youth hostel, students from the Yardy English Medium School, nursing students from the Helen Rose School of Nursing, Umri Christian Hospital staff, church officials and community representatives. Donna Yardy, who had flown from the USA, met Bob in the throng. Bob's brother and sister-in-law, David and Sherrill Yardy, were also in the crowd. In all, about 500 people lined the road and guided us up to a celebration tent pitched close to the hospital. Gracious words and gestures made us all feel so appreciated.

GROUNDBREAKING FOR UCH. In the afternoon, John facilitated two workshops with leaders while other team members toured the UCH facilities. A groundbreaking ceremony for the first wing of the new hospital capped the day's activities. Construction is planned to begin in March, though significantly more funds are needed to complete hospital reconstruction. We are barely halfway to our financial goal. If you have already contributed, thank you! If you have not yet done so, please consider a one-time donation for this very worthy project.

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. We welcome your friendly comments and questions. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

JUST AFTER SUNRISE

2007-01-20T07:24:00.000-06:00

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

FROM NIRMAL TO ADILABAD

2007-01-19T06:00:00.000-06:00

Post #21

ASCENDING MONKEY MOUNTAIN. Ten

kilometers / six miles north of Nirmal we ran into our first mountain climb of the day—a four-kilometer ascent with switchbacks all the way to the top. We called it "monkey mountain" for the many monkeys (more than fifty) the foraged on the road, scattering as we approached. Monkey Mountain was a real grinder, as was another mountain with switchbacks about 20 km / 12 mi further up the road. Mountains are hard, but they mean incredible mountain-top vistas and fast descents. We enjoyed both benefits to the fullest.

CHASED BY WILD DOGS. Just past the top of Monkey Mountain, which is an uninhabited forest area, a pack of wild dogs began to chase John. The dogs began at a distance and closed in quickly before he was able to pick up speed on the rough road. The dogs were unlike typical Indian dogs which never chase people, bikes or vehicles; these were reddish brown with spots—and quite vicious. The fastest dog closed within a few feet of John’s bike before he found a higher gear and slowly pulled away from them. Ahead of the rest of the team, John cell-phoned back to the others to warn them. The wild dogs had departed by the time the other riders and the trailer-pulling Tata Victa went through that stretch of road.

ANTICIPATING UMRI. We were met by representatives of Umri Christian Hospital about 10 km / 6 mi from the day’s destination—Adilabad. The UCH representatives included Umri’s new Medical Director Dr. John Pratap. We enjoyed lunch with them before continuing on. We covered 80 km / 50 mi today. Tomorrow, we plan to start early and arrive at Umri before noon. We hope to visit UCH and its related services and schools.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY, NATHAN! We want to say "happy birthday" to Nathan Yardy, son of Bob and Donna Yardy, who turns 18 today. Since Donna has flown to India to meet us at Umri on Saturday, Nathan is "home alone" for this milestone (18 is voting age in the USA). Actually, he’s driving from Campaign, Illinois to Muncie, Indiana, to be with his sister. Nathan contributed to Bicycle India 2007 by working on our brochure, which we are distributing to thousands of people along our route. Hope you have a great day, Nathan!

TOP 10 PHRASES FOR WEEKS 2 & 3

2007-01-19T05:56:00.000-06:00

We'll see if we can keep this going...

10. ONLY TWO KILOMETERS. This is a variation on "only twenty kilometers." "Only two kilometers" during our bypass around downtown Hyderabad meant 16 miles.

9. ONLY ONE KILOMETER. A variation on "only two kilometers," except "one kilometer" actually turned out to be five miles to our Hyderabad destination.

8. CHICKEN 65. A very spicy Indian rendition of KFC’s "popcorn chicken." Tasty! Why is it called "Chicken 65?" we keep asking. Only Narendra John has been completely forthcoming: "I really don’t know." Now we assign a different number to every other type of chicken we are served: "Chicken 66," "Chicken 67," …

7. GO AHEAD. I’LL CATCH UP. Joe’s comment to the rest of the riding group whenever he sees a photo op he just can’t pass up, which is often. He (happily) spends a lot of time catching up.

6. YOU LIKE MORE. HAVE SOME. TAKE. Even in his broken English, our driver/guide Gope can be very persuasive about pushing food. These are imperative statements--not questions, not suggestions. You will eat more.

5. NOOOOO! This is what John defiantly yells at an oncoming bus or truck that is in the passing lane and threatening to run him off the road and onto the dirt shoulder. It’s a bluff that most drivers (a) never hear and (b) would laugh at if they did. When it’s clear a driver will or must persist in taking up all paved surface, John is obediently on the shoulder like everyone else. He just THINKS he scares trucks into veering out of his way most of the time.

4. DID YOU SEE THAT BIRD? Bob’s got the team sensitized to birds, even though he’s the only one who knows anything but crows by name. The best we can do is say "did you see that bird?" and try to describe it to him. We’ve recently seen a tree full of flying foxes (huge red-blonde bats) and hornbill—both rarely observed in the wild by ornithologists (see, Bob, we know what you are!).

3. I NEED MORE TELEGU BROCHURES. The first rider says a cheery "hi!" to folks we pass by. By the time Joe brings up the rear, anyone who’s still looking with interest at our entourage gets handed—from Joe’s bike—a brochure about Umri Christian Hospital. Joe’s always asking for more Telegu-language brochures. That will change to Marathi and Hindi as we move northward.

2. WHERE FROM? Folks we pass by or who pull up beside us in the car, auto-rickshaw, or motorbike often want to know where we’re from. "Where from?" is the usual question. Another way it’s said: "What is your country?"

1. CHAI? This remains supreme in our top ten phrases. We have chai from the nearest outdoor vendor at 6:30 am each day. If anyone in the USA can duplicate this tasty hot drink and market it they could give Starbuck’s a run for its money. This is far better than anything that goes by the name of "chai" that is served in America’s coffeeshops.

Stay tuned for next week's installment of our Top Ten Phrases of the Week! Thanks for your interest & involvement. We welcome your friendly comments and questions. Check back often for updates. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

ONE THOUSAND MILES BEHIND US

2007-01-18T05:02:00.000-06:00

POST #20

1,000 MILES BEHIND US. What a January it’s been so far! We’re two and a half weeks into the New Year and we’ve pedaled over 1,000 miles / 1,600 kilometers. It’s a milestone to which we’ve been looking forward. But you just don’t realize it’s happening out on the road. Bob and John forgot about the moment and decided to really crank it the last 20 km into Nirmal, averaging over 30 kph / 18 mph for the distance. All eventually made it to the town safely. Photo: villagers hitch a ride to a nearby town in the back of a lory/truck.

INDIAN AND GUEST RIDERS. We are joined by two Telegu-speaking Indian riders for this phase of the journey. A young man from Hyderabad named Munoz and an older man from Yavatmal area named K. P. Mudave. In addition to these, David Goodnight of Seattle, Washington is riding with us to Umri. Today, his teenage daughter Audra rode 40 km. It’s hard to imagine what village people we passed thought about a young woman riding a bicycle along in our single-file entourage. Photo: David Goodnight pushes himself up a hill.

THE PASSING SCENE. We pass through such beautiful landscapes and rustic village scenes each day that it’s hard to put it all into perspective. Joe James’ photos capture a good sense of what we’re seeing and experiencing. A man follows a plow pulled by oxen. Women plant rice fields in calf-deep mud and water. Traffic slows for a herd of cattle being driven down the road. A flock of goats forage by the road, several with their front feet on the trunk of a tree while they reach for tender leaves. School children in uniform wait for their transportation beside the road, smiling, waving, and calling out to us. Men on motorcycles and in auto-rickshaws slow down to ask about us. A caravan of oxcarts with sugar cane piled high creates a challenge for steering your bike as you approach them from behind. There’s an ancient fort on the right. See that little Hindu shrine over there? Monkeys play along the side of the road. And this is just the countryside; India’s cities and towns are even more interesting. India by bicycle is an effervescent feast for the senses and an artesian well for the heart. Photo: how large loads of laundry get cleaned.

Here are some more photos from recent days:

MOVING NORTHWARD AGAIN

2007-01-17T16:54:00.000-06:00

POST #19

BACK ON THE BIKES. It felt good to get back on the bikes today and ride 104 kilometers / 64 miles north on National Highway 7. After three days of NOT riding, we were anxious to pedal toward our goal. Not long after 6:30 am, we left Hyderabad with two new Indian riders and David Goodnight of Seattle, Washington with us. The first of our group arrived in Kamareddi, our day’s destination, around 4:00 pm in 100-degree Fahrenheit heat. We received a gracious welcome and spent an extended 2-hour lunchtime in Ramayampet, about 70 km into the ride. Another group welcomed us in a small village about 15 kilometers further up the road. We had no punctured tires on our bikes, but our support vehicle experienced two flat tires today. All is repaired and Sanje Sumadra’s Tata Victa is ready to go forward.

“DELHI – 1459 KM.” On the far north side of Hyderabad we saw the first road sign with the name “Delhi” and an official measurement in distance to our goal—“1459 km” (that’s 926 miles). Actually, it will take us quite a few more kilometers/miles than that, since we will veer off NH7 toward Umri and Yavatmal. We plan to rejoin NH7 in Nagpur, riding along it until NH28 splits off to the northwest--directing us to Agra, Delhi and New Delhi. Tomorrow, we should pass 1000 miles by the time we reach Nirmal So far, we’ve ridden 1523 kilometers / 944 miles. We’ve got a long way to go! But it was great to begin to see road signs that remind us of our hoped-for destination. By the way, Delhi is the older city that is next to New Delhi, a newer city that is now the central government center for India.

THANK YOU. We must say “thank you” to all our friends and supporters in Hyderabad who celebrated our journey and made us feel good about our effort. Your smiles, words, laughter, songs, dances, processions, garlands, shawls, flower petals, offerings, meals, hospitality and prayers will be in our hearts and minds as we forge ahead. May your expressions sustain us from Nagpur to New Delhi. And may all you have offered and expended come back to you multiplied!

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. Learn more @www.bikeindia.org.

READY FOR THE THIRD LEG OF THE JOURNEY

2007-01-15T20:56:00.000-06:00

FOUR LEGS OF THE JOURNEY. We're dividing the journey from Nagercoil to New Delhi in four legs. The first leg took us from Nagercoil to Bangalore. Bangalore to Hyderabad was the second leg. Hyderabad to Nagpur will be the third leg. The final push will be the longest--from Nagpur to New Delhi.

THIRD-LEG INTERVAL. Our trek from Hyderabad to Nagpur will have an intermission when we reach Umri on Saturday (the green dot on this map). We will visit Umri Christian Hospital and meet with hospital staff and supporters on Sunday before resuming our ride northward. Nagpur (the end of the blue line on this map) is the last place we expect to have known and friendly faces and places waiting for us. The ride on up to New Delhi will likely involve several nights of tenting and "roughing it" more than we have thus far. Actually, we're looking forward to that.

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. We welcome your friendly comments. We also welcome your friendly contributions to rebuild Umri Christian Hospital. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

CELEBRATING AND SERVING IN HYDERABAD

2007-01-15T20:39:00.000-06:00

POST #18

SYMBOLS OF SACRIFICE AND PARTNERSHIP. Each of our core team members spoke about our project of raising funds and awareness for rebuilding Umri Christian Hospital at different locations yesterday morning. People here seem sincerely interested in and inspired by Bicycle India 2007. Unexpectedly, individuals and groups in India have offered thousands of rupees in support of the hospital--a real sacrifice and a symbol to all in North America of a partnership in the desire to see a bright future for UCH.

FROM DANCING TO FOOT WASHING. On Sunday afternoon we headed to a youth hostel for a welcome celebration by the Emmanuel Conference of the Free Methodist Church. This welcome was an uproarious one, with garlands, dancing, signs, and children throwing flower petals. Men danced the “tiger dance,” encircling each of our cycling team members and gyrating to tribal drums and instruments. We were then offered a foot washing--an ancient rite of both honor and humble service--by two bishops of the church. A large group meeting with singing and sharing lasted late into the evening. Seriously, this is way too much! We hadn’t ridden our bikes at all, but we were exhausted when we fell into bed Sunday night.

SERVICE DAY. Monday was a full day of service off the bikes. Our team went different directions across Hyderabad. John spent the day facilitating training with a group of emerging leaders on one side of the city. Joe met with a similar gathering in another part of the city. Bob worked for the team most of the day by tuning up the bikes, making arrangements for our lodging in Delhi, etc. It was the first time we’d been off the bikes for a second day in a row since we started. This much time in one place seems like forever. We’re anxious to get riding again.

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. We'd love to hear from you. Learn more @ http://www.bikeindia.org/.

ARRIVING IN HYDERABAD

2007-01-13T21:07:00.000-06:00

POST #17

A JAUNT BECOMES A HARROWING ORDEAL. Today’s ride was supposed to be a short 40-kilometer/24-mile jaunt: 20 k to the outskirts of the city where a welcome ceremony would occur and then another 20 k thru Hyderabad (nicknamed "Cyberabad" for its computer technolgy development) to a retreat center just beyond the city’s north side. But as we have come to expect, plans change--sometimes not by our choice or to our liking. At the end of the day we’d logged 100 kilometers/62 miles, finishing in the dark at nearly 7:00 pm. The good news is we arrived safely if a bit frazzled at the retreat center and are looking forward to a few days of rest and rejuvenation.

PULLING OUT ALL THE STOPS. Hyderabad is the administrative center for the three General Conferences of the Free Methodist Church in India. Indian bishops who office here planned an overwhelming welcome for us. We were escorted in a 1k-long parade—with drums, singing, dancing, and placards—to a meeting facility. We were showered with flower petals by supporters. In an afternoon meeting of about 400 people, we received garlands and shawls--a gracious Indian gesture of honor and goodwill. Each of us shared about our experience on the road thus far. There was singing, food, and encouragement all around. Congregations and individuals offered contributions for Umri Christian Hospital totaling about 35,000 rupees—this from people who really don’t have margin in their small incomes. This was a very encouraging moment for us. We are so grateful for this expression of care for the project to rebuild Umri Christian Hospital.

NIGHT RIDING—NOT FUN. Had our ride from that extended welcome meeting to our place of lodging at the retreat center been only 20 k as expected, we would have been okay. We left the celebration around 2:30 pm, but a guide led our driver around the city instead of thru it—adding 30 miles to our ride. The extra time put us beyond the 6:00 pm sunset and into 45 minutes of riding under increasingly darkening skies. Eighty percent of Indian traffic accidents occur after dark, so we were more than a bit concerned. Even with reflective vests and flashing lights on some of our bikes, riding bicycles in traffic—particularly Indian traffic—at night is nerve wracking. We’ll chalk this one up to experience and hope it doesn’t happen again.

THE WEEKEND AHEAD. For the record, after today’s ride from Shadnegar to the north side of Hyderabad we’ve ridden 1416 kilometers/878 miles in 14 days. We’ve each been invited to talk about our journey and the project to rebuild Umri Christian Hospital at various locations tomorrow. On Monday, Joe and John have been asked to facilitate some equipping workshops for local leaders. On Tuesday, while Joe works in an administrative capacity, Bob and John hope to explore the city. We resume our ride northward on Wednesday at 6:30 am—sharp.

COMPANIONS FOR PART OF THE JOURNEY. Today, David Goodnight of Seattle joined our team as a guest rider. He will ride with us from Hyderabad to Umri. He brought along his daughter, Audra. Marilyn James, Joe’s spouse, also met us today. She will be with us (riding in the Tata Victa) all the way to Nagpur. We welcome these traveling companions for this portion of the journey.

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. We welcome your friendly comments and questions. Learn more @ http://www.bikeindia.org/.

CLOSING IN ON HYDERABAD

2007-01-12T05:55:00.000-06:00

POST #16

NAME THAT INDIAN TOWN. We’ve been traveling from town to town just long enough for the names of our daily destinations to be hard to recall. Like the name of the town in which we arrived this afternoon. What is it? It’s Shadnagar. But where did we sleep last night? Uh… O, yes, (after asking another more map-minded team member): Kathakota. And the day before that? We may not remember the names of all these places we’ve been over the past two weeks, but we’ve not had a single dull moment. Every day is an adventure full of unique, never-to-be-repeated encounters with incredible, real, hard-working people. Local folk are very interested in our bikes, helmets, fluorescent lime green vests with “Bicycle India 2007” scribed in Hindi and English on the back. But they may not know that we are also very interested in them. It is one of our goals to make the day of every person we encounter, even with a smile, a wave, and a “hi!” from the bike as we pass by. Photo: Typical interest in our bikes at many stops.

INDIA FLOWS. Our ride today was 87 kilometers/54 miles, mostly uphill with a headwind and humid. When we’re on the bike, we can tell it’s humid by the number of times we’re reaching for water or Gatorade to replenish the moisture and nutrients we’re sweating away. We’ve now covered 1,316 kilometers/816 miles out of an anticipated 3,240 kilometers/2,000 miles. We ride on the road or, when it’s paved and marked, on the shoulder. Rarely are there any markings on the roads and where there ARE white lines, it’s clear they don’t mean much. India flows. That’s a reality which is expressed in many dimensions in multiple personal, social, political and religious applications. Driving and traffic is just one very visible expression of the heart and mind of this diverse, colorful land. Photo: Joe James rides along.

A HOSPITAL LIKE UCH. We had a great surprise along today’s route. About 100 miles south of Hyderabad, we came upon a sign for the Christian Mennonite Charitable Hospital. Every curious, Bob and Joe went inside to look around. A hospital administrator (brother to Jaya John) showed them around and offered tea (chai!) in his office. The hospital in its physical facility and inpatient, outpatient, and community health service, is quite similar to the plans for Umri Christian Hospital. We believe that when a new facility is built at Umri, its good reputation and solid services to poor Indian residents will begin to grow and flourish. We hope you—and those you encourage—will help us make that dream a reality.

READY FOR HYDERABAD. We are about 46 kilometers/26 miles from Hyderabad. We anticipate riding to the city by mid-morning, being joined by other local riders at the city limits, and cycling through this metropolitan area of 6 million + people to our weekend quarters—the Operation Mobilization (OM) campus. That will put an exclamation point on 14 days of riding. It will also prepare us for next week’s push—a trek to Umri Christian Hospital, an overnight stay at Gandhi’s ashram at Sevagram, and visits with our friends who bicycled between Umri and Yavatmal with us last January. But first we rest in…what was the name of this town?

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. We welcome your friendly comments and questions. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

GOOD MORNING, INDIA

2007-01-11T07:07:00.000-06:00

We were awed by this sunrise thru fog on our way out of Anatapura on Wednesday morning. Joe stopped to snap this photo.

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

CLOSER TO HYDERABAD

2007-01-11T06:53:00.000-06:00

POST #15

AN 80-MILE THURSDAY. We rode 80 miles to get to a busy little town that puts us about 150 kilometers from Hyderabad--the major Indian city that is our destination for the weekend. We started at 6:30 am, got in 50 miles before noon, had a leisurely lunch around 1:00 pm, and thought we would finish the ride shortly. But it was one of those days when the town we were looking for was really much further than expected. It’s when "only 20 kilometers to go" really is 40 k down the road in the sun, heat, dust, and honking trucks. We were over six hours in the saddle. But we all arrived safely and will look forward to a restful evening.

GADGETS FOR THE JOURNEY. We’re carrying several gadgets on our bikes that heightens interest on the journey. Each North American rider has a cycle computer, which measures such things as current speed, average speed, distance for the day, total distance for the trek, rpms/cadence, duration of the ride, maximum speed for the day, etc. One also has a handlebar-mounted e-trex GPS unit, which adds information like altitude, direction, and hundred other interesting geo-positioning facts. Two of us are carrying binoculars. We’re taking still photos and video footage each day. Bob is making audio reports into a tiny digital voice machine. John is the only one listening to music and books along the route, clipping his nano iPod to his waste. In addition to music by Sufjan Stevens, Caedman’s Call, Lifesong, the Beatles, etc., he’s listening to four audio books: Orthodoxy by G. K. Chesterton, Plan B by Anne LaMott, When Fish Fly by the guys from Seattle’s Pike Place Fish Market, and The Leadership Pill by Ken Blanchard.

LOOKING FORWARD TO HYDERABAD. We’re looking forward to getting to Hyderabad. Marilyn, Joe’s wife, will meet us there. We will meet a number of folks Joe and John met there last January. We’ll have Sunday and Monday as rest days. Our ride from Bangalore has been swift as we have settled into a daily rhythm and routine. Friday will be our 13th day to ride. Nagercoil seems like such a long time ago and such a distant place. Thankful for the opportunity to ride for Umri Christian Hospital, we’re enjoying each day and looking forward to what lies ahead.

PLEASE CONTRIBUTE FOR UMRI. If you haven’t yet made a contribution to rebuild Umri Christian Hospital, we encourage you to do so today. Every gift is important…and it also encourages us as we ride through the heart of India. Please tell someone else about our ride and project, this blog, and encourage them to join other in contributing to rebuild UCH. Thanks for your interest and support. God bless you.

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

A THIRD OF THE WAY

2007-01-10T06:50:00.000-06:00

POST #14

TO DHONE. We rode 100 k into Dhone (except John, who missed the turn-off to the town and got to ride a few more kilometers! His excuse: "I can’t read Telegu--who knew?"). Along the way we encountered wonderfully hilly countryside. We had our longest, toughest climb of the trek--a 7 k hill that seemed never to peak. But we got to sail down the other side. Our afternoon arrival in these small Indian towns draws a lot of interest; folks aren’t sure what’s happening, just that they’re seeing five men on very odd-looking bicycles with shiny helmets and pale bright vests riding through their marketplace. What’s that about?

A THIRD OF THE WAY TO DELHI. This was our eleventh day in the saddle. We’re pedaling between five and six hours a day (not including our breaks for food and water). Today we reached the one-third point in our 3,200-kilometer (2,000-mile) journey. We’ve now ridden 1,200 kilometers since starting at Nagercoil on December 30th. We’re averaging between 20 kph (12 mph) and 22 kph (13 mph), which is a bit less than expected but in line with our commitment to ride with relatively untrained local team members. In all, we’re pleased with our progress to this point.

THE ROAD ZOO. Some local folk refer to Indian roads as "the zoo." Seriously, we’ve seen enough variety of animals on, beside or near National Highway 7 to populate a small zoo. Motorized vehicles and bicycles share the road with oxcarts and pony-drawn carriages, with goat and sheep herders, with all kinds of cows and water buffalo. Alongside the roads one frequently sees chickens, pigs, monkeys, and a variety of unfamiliar birds. Strangely, all this seems normal to us by now. Why NOT use this main north-south roadway to move India’s dynamic life along?

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. We welcome your friendly comments and questions. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

NEARLY 1,000 KILOMETERS COMPLETE

2007-01-09T17:39:00.000-06:00

POST #13

HOT RIDE TO ANATAPUR. We had a 72-mile (117 k) ride today from the village of Bagepalli to the town of Anatapur in 86-degree Fahrenheit temperatures and bright sun. We drank lots of water and Gatorade, even downed a few power bars. We were drained by the time we made it to our place of lodging. But the day’s effort puts us at 997.75 kilometers – just a few kilometers shy of 1,000. It’s still less than one-third of the way, but it feels good to be able to say we’ve traveled that far. Photo: Bob Yardy stops with his bike, a Fuji Royale.

BIRD WACHING ALONG THE WAY. Bob Yardy, our team leader, is an avid bird watcher. He’s been pointing out all kinds of bird that are unique to India as we ride along. He sees birds where the rest of us see merely trees and scrub brush. So far Bob (and some of the rest of us) have seen the following kinds of birds along the route: Brahmany kite, Pariah kite, black ibis, white-necked stork, peacock, shorebird, red-wattled lapwing, rose-ringed parakeet (in photo we took today), little green bee-eater, white-breasted kingfisher, Indian roller, red-vented bulbul, Indian gray shrike, purple sunbird, common myna, and many black drongo (must be India’s equivalent to a crow or starling). We’re sure to see more.

ENCOUNTERING VILLAGES AND PEOPLE. One of the differences in rural America and rural India is that in America there are relatively few villages between towns or cities. In India, there is a village every two miles or so. And each village bustles with people, markets, outdoor dining, bartering, and community life. In America I can ride my bike for many miles without seeing a single person; in India, people are walking along the road even in what seems to be a desolate section of the roadway. One gets the feeling one is never far from a village.

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. We welcome your friendly comments and questions. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

SATURDAY & SUNDAY IN BANGALORE

2007-01-08T17:35:00.000-06:00

POST #12

SUNDAY REST DAY. We had our first break from cycling on Sunday, but it was a full schedule. John spoke at a church in Bangalore and then participated in the dedication of a new facility for the congregation. Joe, Bob, Gope and Sathisam, having had a very good meeting with faculty and staff at Christian Medical College and Hospital in Vellore (about 140 k from Bangalore) on Saturday evening, set out to return Sunday afternoon. A religious parade on National Highway 7 and a rock slide delayed their return until early evening. Once they got to Bangalore, we all packed into the Tata Victa and headed north of Bangalore to visit the Free Methodist International Child Care Ministries Children’s Hostel. 83 children, who stay at the hostel nine months out of the year and attend public school in the area, sang and danced (photo) and we had a great time together. Photo: Bob, Joe, and Sathisam meet with faculty at CMC.

MONDAY: REJOINING THE JOURNEY. We set out early this morning with two new riders from Bangalore, Mohan and Shereesh. We have passed from the state of Tamil Nadu into Karnataka. The predominant language here is Kanata, one of many official languages in India. These Indian riders, along with our Karnataka guide, Sagar, help us communicate and make our way through this particular state. We made it through more climbs and rolling hills into the small town of Bagepalli, about 100 km north of Bangalore. It was a cool day – high was 80 degrees Fahrenheit (just thought we’d remind our American Midwest friends, who will not see temps like this at least until June).

LOOKING TOWARD HYDERABAD. Our sights are now set on Hyderabad. We will work on knocking out at least 100 k (62 miles) a day until we arrive there on Saturday. Hyderabad is another one of India’s growing technology centers, smaller but similar to Bangalore in its striving to compete in the global information and communication technology market. Both Bangalore and Hyderabad were featured prominently in Thomas Friedman’s recent bestselling book The World Is Flat. This is a good read for anyone interested in understanding some of the mind-boggling dynamics that are bringing India and China into the limelight as emerging global economic powers. Map: we've journeyed from south to north along the blue line, which represents National Highway 7. The blue marking ends on the map at Umri Christian Hospital. That will be about half way to New Delhi. Right now, we are 200 k north of Bangalore.

ONLY 2,300 KILOMETERS TO GO! All are healthy. All are safe. All are in good spirits. Our bikes are holding up well. Still only one tire puncture. No more spills. Bob and John have been duly warned about trying to outrace motorbikes and auto rickshaws. We’re gulping lots of Gatorade and eating bananas like monkeys. We’re also enjoying the Indian food, hospitality, and people at small roadside restaurants each breakfast and lunchtime. It’s hard to believe we’ve already put over 900 kilometers behind us. But we still have 2,300 k to go! Thanks for everyone’s support, prayers, and concerns. We believe you are riding with us through your care.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY, JARED! John sends birthday greetings along to his oldest son, Jared. Jared, a freshman at Olivet Nazarene University and a member of the ONU Men’s Soccer Team, is 19 years old today. Best wishes for a great day, Jared, as you return to ONU for semester #2.

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. We welcome your friendly comments and questions. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

WEEKEND WELCOME

2007-01-06T16:10:00.000-06:00

POST #11

BANGALORE TRAFFIC. We arrived in Bangalore, a city of 10 million souls—and we think they were all on National Highway 7, our route into the metropolis. We were in thick traffic all the way into Bangalore. There, we met our host, who led us on his motorcycle to the guest house. “He led us” means that we wound our way through four lanes of traffic packed with all sorts of vehicles, turning left and right, crossing lanes back and forth. Harrowing. But, we all made it to the guest house, a respite in the heart of this city. Our “easy day” was a breeze until the last five kilometers; that 5k will be with us for a while. We’re thankful Indian drivers are not rude (relative to American drivers) or else we would all be toast by now.

REST AFTER EIGHT DAYS ON THE ROAD. We've ridden an average of 110 kilometers (68 miles) a day for eight straight days. We are not exhausted, but so say that we are looking forward to a rest day is an understatement. We are in good physical condition. No one has been sick at all. The food is agreeing with us. Our cycling equipment is holding up. But the rest day is welcome...if having meetings, speaking, and attending various ceremonies is rest (comparatively, it is!).

FAREWELL TO JOSE & ANAND. We say farewell to our Tamil Nadu riders Jose and Anand (on the left in the photo) tomorrow morning. These young riders have been strong and of great humor. But we are passing out of their native language area and two riders who are familiar with the state we are currently in will join us as we resume our journey northward on Monday morning at 6:30 am. Thanks for your great effort, Jose and Anand. We are proud of you and honor you! We also say "see you later" to Sathisam (in blue shirt), the Umri Christian Hospital Administrator. But we plan to see him again when we arrive in Umri two weeks from now.

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. Learn more @ http://www.bikeindia.org/.

ON TO BANGALORE

2007-01-05T16:02:00.000-06:00

POST #10

CLIMB EVERY MOUNTAIN. “On the Twelfth Day of Christmas my true love gave to me...” -- twelve mountains to climb! We rode out of Dharmapuri at 6:45 am this morning and hit our first climb, unexpectedly, around 9:30 am. Glad we got that one out of the way. Oh, my, here’s another long, steady climb. A quick downhill glide…followed by another climb. And another, and another… So, out of 97 kilometers (60.5 miles), we spent over half the day mountain climbing, bringing us steadily up toward the city of Bangalore. We arrived in Hosur around 2:00 pm thoroughly exhausted but also invigorated by the great vistas we’d taken in from these heights. (Note from John: I attached my aero bar to my handlebars at the start of our journey just for the sake of having options for positioning my hands. I never dreamed I’d use the aero bar for sailing down a mountain in India. I coasted over 31 mph (52 kph) on one hill, and I was holding back for the sake of caution.)

TO BANGALORE AND VELLORE. Tomorrow, we are anticipating a relatively short ride (40 km) into Bangalore, India’s technology center. We hope to be at the Free Methodist youth hostel before noon so Bob, Joe, Gope, and Sathisam can travel by vehicle to the Christian Medical College and Hospital at Vellore. There, they will meet with medical teaching staff and administrators in a meeting on Saturday to explore partnership opportunities between Umri Christian Hospital and the Christian Medical College. CMC, by the way, is where Dr. Paul Brand (author of Fearfully and Wonderfully Made and other books) did his significant work with people with leprosy. CMC has been a significant source of medical staffing for Umri Christian Hospital in the past. While the rest of the team is in Vellore, John will tour Bangalore on Saturday afternoon and then speak to two groups on Sunday. The Vellore group will return Sunday evening for a special dedication ceremony at the youth hostel. Busy weekend!

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

PHOTOS WORTH MORE THAN A THOUSAND WORDS

2007-01-04T06:59:00.000-06:00

Spice and grain for sale in the open markets

A group on piligrimage to a Hindu temple

An ox-pulled caravan carrying sugarcane to market

Street musicians in a procession in Dundigul

Group photo in front of a field of ripening sugarcane

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

TOP TEN PHRASES FOR WEEK ONE

2007-01-04T06:54:00.000-06:00

Here are the Top Ten phrases we've used and heard used along the route during our first week of riding:

10. “CHAI”

India’s irresistible trademark beverage--hot spiced tea with hot milk and tons of sugar in a plastic shot glass. One thing Indians decided to keep when they kicked the English out. Tea, three times a day. Ahh!

9. “LEFT SIDE OF THE ROAD, BOB.”

Yardy keeps thinking like a silly American and we have to remind him to ride on the left side of the road--another residual norm from a century of English rule.

8. “ANOTHER KODAK MOMENT”

Keeping Joe on his bike with all this glorious scenery, interesting people, and intriguing sights is a challenge. “There he goes again.” On the other hand, he’s taken some really sensational photos, some of which are posted on the blog. Joe’s taking still photos while John is videotaping.

7. “MORE NAAN, PLEASE”

This Indian flat bread is addictive.

6. “HAVE YOU TAKEN YOUR PILL TODAY?”

We remind each other each morning to take our malaria prevention pill--Malarone.

5. “GATORADE? WATER? BANANAS? COOKIES?”

At each rest stop, our driver/guide Gope peddles his wares which, of course, we’re craving after 90 minutes of hard pedaling in 80 to 90-degree heat and sun. We are consuming tons of water, it seems. We should have invested in Aquafina.

4. “LOW GEAR! LOW GEAR!”

John yells out to the Indian riders to gear down on hills. They aren’t used to multiple gears and tend to try to grind out the climbs in high gear. They’re catching on, however.

3. “OFF!”

What we yell when a bus or truck is passing another bus or truck on the two-lane highway and hasn’t left us any room at all to ride. We scramble to get off the pavement and onto what little shoulder there is.

2. “ONLY 20 MORE KILOMETERS!”

This means “There’s really 40 kilometers to go.” Gope and Sathi Sam routinely underestimate the distance to our daily destinations. We laugh when they say “only 20 more to go.” We’ve ridden considerably further each day than originally planned. But no one’s complaining. What’s 12 miles more after 62 or 70?

1. “HAPPY NEW YEAR!”

Our greeting, echoed back thousands of times on New Year’s Day and January 2nd as we road thru villages and towns. Apparently many Indians know this phrase in English. English is one of over 20 official languages in India.

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SIXTH DAY OF CYCLING THRU INDIA

2007-01-04T06:45:00.000-06:00

POST #9

TO DHARMAPURI. We rode 77 miles from Dundigul to Dharmapuri today. We are nearing Bangalore, our weekend destination. The “Silicon Valley of India” is about 90 miles to the north. On Friday we cover about 60 miles, finishing with a 30-mile jaunt into the city before noon on Saturday. John will speak to two groups in Bangalore on Sunday. Joe and Bob will travel to Vellore to a medical school to recruit medical personnel for Umri Christian Hospital.

FIRST BIG HILL. Along today’s route we encountered our first major hill, a 3 kilometer-long climb up into a high plane. I thought the steep hill would never end. Half way up the hill we encountered monkeys for the first time. A group of fifteen or so of the critters were frolicking by the roadside. We were too focused on making it up the hill to stop and take photos. Near the top, a roadside vender was selling coconuts, so we drank coconut milk and ate some of the soft center before carrying on.

DAILY ROUTINE. We’re into a daily routine now. We start our rides at 6:30 am, after loading our luggage in the Tata Victa, having a cup of chai, and praying together. We ride for 14 to 16 miles and stop at a village restaurant for breakfast (like the one in this photo). After breakfast we ride pretty hard, with one rest stop, until lunch at 12:30 or so. We are getting over 50 miles behind us by noon each day. Lunch is also at a village or town restaurant. We finish the ride by 3:30 pm, arriving in our destination town and checking into a hotel or the guest house provided for us. We shower, rest, make repairs, make arrangements for the next day, journal, read, and then eat dinner together. We’re asleep before 10 pm.

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. Learn more @ http://www.bikeindia.org/

TO NAMAKKAL

2007-01-03T07:17:00.000-06:00

POST #8

FIFTH DAY RIDING. Today was our fifth day riding north from Nagercoil and Kaniyakumari at the southern tip of India to New Delhi. We rode 74 miles from Dundigal to Namakkal. We are striving to make it to Bangalore by Saturday. Bangalore is a major cit in India, called the "Silicon Valley of India" for its computer technology centers. We had the best ride day yet. The wind was at our backs and it seemed like we were riding on the clouds.

VILLAGE TO VILLAGE. The names of the villages and towns we are passing through on our 2,000-mile trek northward are quite interesting, but they come and go with such frequency that they are starting to run together. We are weary when we arrive at our destination for the day. We shower, rest, eat dinner, and retire for the evening. But each place and the people fill one's senses. Whatever the community or village or farm or industry we pass by, it is insightful and instructive.

OUR SUPPORT. Our journey would not be possible without our Indian team members. Sanju "Gope" Sumadre (far right) is not oly a professional driver by vocation, he makes all sorts of arrangements to make our riding smooth, supported, and refreshed. Gope is from Yavatmal in Maharashtra, near Umri. We are also supported by Sathi Sam (next to Gope), the Hospital Administrator at Umri Christian Hospital. Sathi Sam is from Tamil Nadu, the stat through which we are now passing, and his ability to translate and talk to local folk has been invaluable. He will leave us in a few days, replaced by another host in another state. We appreciate his guidance and help. In the photo, our Tamil Nadu riders are Anand and Jose. All are healthy. All are safe. We press on.

Here are a few more photos....

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ONWARD, NORTHWARD

2007-01-02T07:14:00.000-06:00

POST #7

ON TO DINDIGUL. After Monday’s epic ride, we were thankful to have a relatively brief jaunt on Tuesday. Our trek took us from the outskirts of Madurai (a city of 4 million inhabitants) to Dindigul, 74 kilometers (47 miles) to the north. We passed through many villages along the way, about one every two miles. Village life seems consistent with Bible times. As we pass water wells, shepherds, goats, fields of ripening grain, and so many living people seemingly living hand to mouth, we recall some of Jesus’ stories, parables, and teachings. We actually saw a man with his ox stuck in the roadside ditch. We would have stopped to help, but it was the Sabbath. Just kidding.

OBSERVING SOCIAL LIFE. It is impossible not to notice the wide stratification of social life as we ride along, stroll through villages, eat in restaurants, and stay at hotels (accommodation not equal to a Dollar Inn), guest houses, and churches. While India has the fastest growing economy in the world (comparable to China), hundreds of millions of people are locked tight in the grip of poverty and caste. India’s population is more than triple that of the United States—1.2 billion people, or one fifth of the world’s total population—dwelling in an area one third the size of the USA. Of these 1.2 billion, it is estimated that as many as 300 million people are considered spiritual and social untouchables, outcasts--a vast swath of the population now referred to as dilats (pronounced “daleets”). Untouchability was officially outlawed in India shortly after it gained independence from England in the late 1940’s, but this millennia-old practice continues with impunity the way unlawful race prejudice and de facto segregation continues to function in America. This situation, along with human trafficking and the rights of women, are challenges the world’s largest democracy is trying to address in various ways. One dilat was recently appointed to a position equivalent to Supreme Court Justice. The way out for most dilats in this rapidly growing economy is education, which India investing in heavily.

TERRAIN AND ROAD CONDITIONS. We entered into some hill country, apparently foothills of the Eastern Ghats (mountains), which we can see to the west as we ride north. Mostly, the roads are flat to rolling. The wind is usually a brisk headwind, so our average speed is about 12 mph. That translates into long hours in the saddle, even on shorter rides like this 47-miler. We are riding in 80 to 90-degrees and sun. About 80 percent of the road surfaces are paved and smooth. It’s that 20 percent that are potholed and broken up that really slows us down. There is a lot of construction long National Highway 7. It is being upgraded to a four-lane road in some places. In most places, however, it’s like any secondary or county road. We are taking the road conditions and terrain in stride, however, grateful for the possibility of riding thru India to raise funds to rebuild Umri Christian Hospital. (Note: This photo does NOT depict the road conditions; this tarmac was broken up for replacement, but we couldn't resist the photo op)

HAPPY BIRTHDAY, MOLLY! John passes along birthday wishes to Molly, who is sweet 16 today. "Sorry I'm missing this birthday, Molly," he says. We all wish Molly a great day!

Here are some more photos from the journey, a few examples of ways bikes are used...

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HAPPY NEW YEAR FROM INDIA!

2007-01-01T07:10:00.000-06:00

POST #6

LONG RIDE ON NEW YEAR’S DAY. “Happy New Year.” That’s the greeting we exchanged with hundreds of Indian villagers and townsfolk on this first day of 2007. All day we traveled north on National Highway 7, the main north-south artery thru India. Leaving the guest house provided by the Church of South India at 6:30 am, we pedaled further today than expected. Our lodging arrangements changed en route and a planned 120 kilometer ride turned into 140 kilometers—over 87 miles. Weary, we arrived on the outskirts of Madurai around 4:30 pm. Saddle time was 7 hours, 42 minutes…and we are feeling every bit of it this evening in our legs, shoulders, and backs. On the other hand, we have now covered 312 kilometers. That’s 194 miles out of a planned 2,000 total miles to New Delhi. You might say that in three days we’ve ridden 10% of the distance. Not bad for just getting started.

KEEPING SAFE ON THE ROADS. We want all to know that we are all healthy at this point and have thus far had a safe time on the roads. Few mishaps. It is true that buses and trucks sometimes pass by at high speeds within feet of us, but we know the Indian “rules of the road” and are but one of many types of vehicles and people on the roads. Bicycles are much more prevalent that cars in India. Animals also wander or are driven along the roads--donkeys, chickens, ducks, sheep, goats, pigs and, of course, the sacred cows. We are wearing iridescent yellow vests with reflective striping (they have our logo emblazoned on the back), not only for us to be well seen, but for us to be able to distinguish our riders from many others on bicycles.

A HIT IN THE VILLAGES. We also want our family and friends to know that our entourage is being well received and is, apparently, quite a novelty even in a culture that is itself one great novelty. Many people wave and greet us as we pedal by. When we stop in a village or town, we are swarmed by young people and men looking over our bikes and gear. People ask us about our purpose and Jose, Anand tell them in the Tamil language. No one has been rude to us; on the contrary, we have been greeted graciously everywhere so far. One person saw our entourage riding and slowed down his limbo to inquire. We stopped to talk to the man who turns out to be a high-ranking trade official from Dubai. He pledged support for Umri Christian Hospital. Imagine that: an official from Dubai contributes to UCH because he sees an international team from Canada, USA and India riding purposefully through the heart of India!

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

AFTER ONE DAY IN THE SADDLE

2006-12-31T05:16:00.000-06:00

POST #5

Our first day of riding took us over 75 miles, nearly 128 kilometers. It was a long, hot ride and we were weary when we arrived at the youth hostel in Anandapuram. The day had three high points and several mini-crises to overcome.

GETTING STARTED. First high point: mounting our bicycles at 6:30 am at the Lysander’s home in Nagercoil and actually getting this long-anticipated journey underway. We were full of excitement and rather nervous at the same time. Dr. Lysander prayed for us and we bade his household and the families of Anand and Jose farewell. In no time we were out of the city and on our way to Kanniyakumari—the southern-most point in India—across wetlands, palm trees, rice fields, vacation resorts.

FURTHEST POINT FROM NEW DELHI. Seventeen miles after launching we saw the beautiful Indian Ocean in Kanniyakumari at Cape Comorin. This windswept point rises from the sea rather sharply. We made our way down to the rocky beach, dipped the back wheels of our bikes in the sea and joined hands in a circle of prayer. Here was the second high-point of the day. We were at the furthest point we would be from New Delhi, our anticipated destination. So much is planned but unknown. But we are confident in the purpose of our ride and hopeful that safety, health, and open doors will be with us all along the way.

STRONG HEADWINDS SLOW US. Leaving Kanniyakumari, we headed northeast and right into to 25-35 mph headwinds. We rode through a massive wind farm with what seemed like thousands of giant modern wind mills with blades over thirty feet long. The wind slowed our pace considerably. We wore ourselves down and had to rest a bit. John hit a rock and punctured, but quickly repaired. John also fell in the rough road and sand as we travelled through one village; he and the bike are fine. Then, Bob took a wrong turn and we rode 10k in the wrong direction before figuring it out. But this is the stuff of riding cross-country. In all, we felt good about the day's ride.

ARRIVING AT THE YOUTH HOSTEL. The third high point was arriving at the youth hostel in Anandapuram. The children lined the roadway into the campus and showered us with flowers as we rode through. We were overwhelmed. After a night's rest, we shared the morning church service with them. We wish you could here these children, age 6-17, whose families were all impacted by the 2004 tsunami, sing and pray. John spoke to them about giving and receiving gifts. After the church service, we packed up and headed on up the road.

SUNDAY JAUNT, LOOKING TOWARD MONDAY. Our journey today was rather brief, only 47 kilometers. We started around 10:45 and rode until 3:00 pm. Still, we travelled through many villages and across fields of rice and through wooded areas. Riding in India is a feast for the eyes and heart. We are spending New Year's Eve in Palayamkottai, staying at a school for deaf children. We hope to strike out early on Monday morning for another long ride--about 120 kilometers--to Thirumangalam. The following are some more photos from today's trek. Check back often for updates, but know that we do not have Internet access every day.

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

READY TO RIDE - DAY ONE

2006-12-29T17:21:00.000-06:00

POST #4

READY FOR DAY ONE. As I post this entry, we are ready to head out on the first leg of our Nagercoil to New Delhi trek. Today’s ride is to be a 130 kilometer ride, one of the longest we have planned. It will first take us south to the southern-most tip of India. We hope to dip the wheels of our bikes in the Indian Ocean at Kanniyahumari (Cape Cormorin). Then we plan to ride north along the east Indian coast. We have been invited to stay at the youth hostel overnight.

WHY WE RIDE. As we begin this core part of our journey, we are very much aware of the support and prayers of many people. We are grateful beyond words. Such care and concern give depth and joy to our journey. Our hope, first and foremost, is that our effort will result in a rebuilt and revitalized Umri Christian Hospital. May care translate into open hearts that are willing to make a donation to the project.

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

GETTING READY TO RIDE

2006-12-29T17:07:00.000-06:00

POST #3

PREPARATION DAY. We had our first experience of riding bicycles on the roads of India this morning. After assembling our bikes and fitting two bikes for our Indian riders Anand and Joce, two young men from Nagercoil, we toured around the city before lunch. Sunny and in the mid-eighties, the ride was pleasant. I think we are going to encounter more pedestrians and vehicle traffic than I imagined. This is not a problem, just a footnote for how we ride—single-file, in good communication, and carefully. The pace may be slower than anticipated, too, because of these factors along with some rough roads.

DEDICATION AT TSUNAMI YOUTH HOSTEL. This afternoon, we drove three hours on bumpy roads to a youth hostel that was expanded after the tsunami that devastated the south east coast of India in December 2004. Founded and guided by local Free Methodist leaders, the hostel is home to 82 boys and girls whose families were directly impacted by the tsunami. We were honored to be part of the dedication of two new buildings—a girl’s dorm and an assembly hall—that have been build through people who participate in the Free Methodist child sponsorship program. We arrived back at Nagercoil late. We are in great anticipation of our first day of the Nagercoil to New Delhi trek on Saturday.

Here are a few more photos of today's preparation activities...

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FROM TRIVANDRUM TO NAGERCOIL...OUR STARTING POINT

2006-12-28T18:35:00.000-06:00

POST #2

ALL ARRIVED SAFELY TOGETHER IN TRIVANDRUM. We and our bikes arrived safely in Trivandrum (this is the traditional name of the city; it has officially been changed to Thiruvananthapuram). Our flight from Mumbai followed the Indian Ocean coast into a lush south land. As we approached the southern tip of India, we noted many salt mines. Trivandrum itself is a beach haven; a high percentage of passengers on our Jet Airways flight were non-Indian tourists. Here the Indian Ocean’s hue is light and inviting.

FROM TRIVANDRUM TO NAGERCOIL. We were met at the airport by Sanje Sumadre, the professional driver from Yavatmal, near Umri, who will be our primary support during the trek north to New Delhi. Nicknamed “Gope,” he is an essential part of our Bicycle India 2007 team. With Gope was Sathi Sam, the Umri Christian Hospital administrator who is from Nagercoil. After greetings and hoisting the bike boxes on top of Gope’s SUV, we drove from Trivandrum to Nagercoil, a city further south in the state of Tamil Nadu. Nagercoil is less than 45 miles from Trivandrum, but it took over three hours due to pace and traffic. It was a two-lane road which is shared by cars, trucks, motorbikes, three-wheeled motorized rickshaws, bicycles, pedestrians, goats, dogs, cattle…you name it. This, we are told, is typical of the highways and roads on which we will pedal 2,000 miles.

OUR FIRST TWO RIDING COMPANIONS: ANAND AND JOCE. We met our first two Indian riding companions when we arrived in Nagercoil. Anand and Joce are two young men who, without us knowing them, have been anticipating our trek together for some time. We look forward to building friendship with them. They will be riding 6-speed bicycles which our project purchased for this purpose. Anand and Joce helped us unload and reassemble our bikes, which survived the air travel and drive from Trivandrum quite well. We can’t wait to start riding. After so much time sitting on airplanes, we are a bit stir crazy.

OUR NAGERCOIL HOST: DR. LYSANDER. But first things first: our gracious host in Nagercoil, a distinguished Free Methodist physician Dr. Nesamoni Lysander, took us on an after-dusk drive to one of his new hostels for young women. Joe James offered prayer in dedication of the facility, which houses 20 of the more than 90 young women who are involved in Dr. and Mrs. Lysander’s ministry. We returned to Nagercoil late and exhausted and looking forward to a good rest in anticipation of beginning our trek in earnest on Saturday, December 30.

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

WE ARE IN INDIA!

2006-12-27T18:33:00.000-06:00

POST #1

WE’RE IN INDIA! We are safely on the ground in India! The flight from Chicago to Mumbai (Bombay), including a 2-hour refueling stop in London, was exhausting. It’s just hard to sit still that long. We boarded the Air India 747-400 at Chicago O’Hare at 7:30 pm on Tuesday, December 26. We arrived in Mumbai, India at 1:00 am on Thursday, December 28. So, we literally lost a day in the air. Go figure.

OUR BIKES MADE IT, TOO. Good news: our bicycles arrived together and in one piece on this important leg of the journey. All three bike boxes were waiting for us as we walked up to the baggage claim in the Mumbai International airport. This sight allayed much anxiety. We have one flight remaining--from Mumbai south to Trivandrum. It’s only a two-hour domestic flight, so we are hoping all goes well for our “vehicles” in the cargo bay of the Jet Airways plane.

DRINKING IT IN. We were extremely tired when we arrived in India in the wee morning hours. But the sights, smells, and culture of India are instantly invigorating. You gulp it in on the walk to the taxi and the drive along Mumbai’s roadways. It confronts you in the distinctive protocols at the hotel and in airport procedures. You do not know the rules, exactly; you just know the customs are not American. You have flown into the most internally diverse culture--or matrix of cultures--on the planet. Its poverty is excessive. Its wealth is exploding. Its burgeoning population—one fifth of the world’s population in a space one-third the size of the USA—is as dense as the smoke-thick air. Its colors are bright against the dullest of faded grays. Its people are beautiful, its customs inexplicable, its promise vast. We look forward to experiencing India outside the tourist areas, outside the barrier of a automobile—on two wheels on open roads at a pace that lets us encounter India’s heart and soul.

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

READY TO FLY

2006-12-26T18:49:00.000-06:00

We converged on Chicago O'Hare airport to check in and board our flight to Mumbai, India. The flight, with a two-hour refueling stop in London, would last over 17 hours on a 747-400. But it's much better than a boat and we are full of anticipation of the days and weeks ahead.

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

ON THE EVE OF A GREAT ADVENTURE

2006-12-25T06:20:00.000-06:00

IT ALL COMES DOWN TO THIS. It's the eve of our departure and a 2,000-mile trek through the heart of India. Anticipation has mounted, along with nervousness. Plans and preparations that go back two years are coming together. On Christmas Day we are on the brink of a great adventure. We will spend this day with our families and loved ones--our last day with them until February 10.

PACKING DECISIONS. Our bikes are already boxed and ready to be checked through as luggage. We're packing our bags painstakingly. We weigh them carefully so that we clear weight limits for both international and domestic flights. What would take with you on a six-week bike ride through India that weighs under 100 pounds--including your bike? Decisions, decisions.

AVOIDING MALARIA. We also begin our rounds of oral malaria prevention medicine today. No one in North America will think a thing about mosquitoes or malaria in January. But this dread disease--and other common tropical conditions--is on our minds. Temperatures in India are in the high 80's and malaria-carrying mosquitoes are prevalent, particularly in south India--where we begin our journey. On Sunday, 90-year old retired man who worked in India for 25 years offered this blessing to us: "May your mosquito nets not have holes in them!" Mosquito nets? Okay, we'll have to get some of those!

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. Let us hear from you. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

IT'S NOT ABOUT THE BIKE...

2006-12-17T13:46:00.000-06:00

To borrow from the title of Tour de France champion Lance Armstrong's bestselling book, our project to ride 2,000 miles thru India is "not about the bike."

It's about...

...RECOGNIZING THE FAITHFULNESS AND COMMITMENT of people who have served the medical needs of hundreds of thousands rural central Indian residents for 55 years.

It's about...

...REBUILDING FOR A NEW GENERATION, replacing deteriorating 1920's-era buildings with a modern facility that will provide for advanced medical interventions.

It's about...

...REGENERATING SUPPORTING AND MAKING NEW FRIENDS within India, support and friendships that are vital to long-term vision, sustainability, and growth of UCH as an important healthcare provider for underserved people.

It's about...

...CELEBRATING A FUTURE OF HOPE that professional medical care, community health outreach, dedicated caregivers, and sustained support make possible.

Our commitment to ride 2,000 miles thru India isn't a matter of "having fun" on wheels for six weeks. It's about riding through villages, towns and cities, talking hundreds of times to people along the way about UCH, encouraging their support, and enlisting their commitment to celebrate its opportunities. The bicycle entourage is a method that makes possible such face-to-face contact that UCH needs to win the hearts and minds of people within India.

Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

BISHOP ON WHEELS

2006-12-14T06:22:00.000-06:00

Meet our Team Members

Bishop Joe James
British Columbia, Canada

When he learned of the planned project to ride 2,000 miles thru India to raise awareness and funds to rebuild Umri Christian Hospital, Free Methodist Bishop Joe James became very interested.

ON A SABBATICAL? The ride coincided with the time of his upcoming Sabbatical. It was in an area in which he was invested and familiar, having served in an oversight capacity as a Bishop of the Free Methodist Church and making semi-annual visits to India. And he had some experience with cross-country bicycling, though he was not currently active in cycling.

TAKING WINGS. It didn't take long for Joe James to decide to spend his Sabbatical on wheels. He threw himself into the effort. He bought a bike and gear and began to train. Outside, he rode his bike around Indianapolis International Airport. Inside, he rode it on a trainer in his living room. He dieted and took off excess weight. He talked about the project with lay and pastoral leaders across North America. When he committed to the project, it seemed to take wings.

750 BICYCLES. On a visit to India a year ago, Joe James realized that bicycles were a basic mobility need for village outreach workers. Without bikes, their efforts to help villagers were limited; with bikes, they might multiply their effectiveness. So, Joe spearheaded an effort to raise funds to purchase 750 Indian-made bicycles--each costing $50. Children, youth, congregations, organizations, and individuals contributed the full amount by October 2006. The bikes are being purchased in local Indian villages, towns, and cities. Even before the Bicycle India 2007 team hits the roads of India, Joe has already made a big difference.

RIDE OF HIS LIFE. Joe is from British Columbia, Canada. He now resides in Indianapolis, Indiana, USA, his base of service as a Bishop in the Free Methodist Church of North America. He's a husband, father and grandfather. And now he is a prepared cyclist looking forward to the ride of his life--a mission unlike any other he's taken on. Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

I'VE NEVER EVEN BEEN TO IOWA

2006-12-12T15:02:00.000-06:00

Meet our Team Members

John Hay, Jr.
Indianapolis, Indiana, USA

NOT IOWA...INDIA! It's true: I've never been to Iowa, though only Illinois separates Iowa and Indiana, where I live. But that's what I thought about when I was asked to participate in Bicycle India 2007 by tour organizer Bob Yardy a little less than two years ago. No matter, as soon as Bob discussed with me the charitable cause and the challenge of the 2,000-mile ride, I was "on board."

INDIANAPOLIS LOVING. I've invested all most all of my adult and professional life in Indianapolis, Indiana. You might say I feel "called" to this metropolitan area. I've served as an urban pastor, a community center director, a regional metropolitan planning coordinator, director of a homeless day center, and now an urban pastor again. I graduated from Plainfield High School, adjacent to Indy, and have been living, cycling, serving, and learning around Central Indiana ever since, leaving only for college and seminary. If you've got the time, I can show and tell all about the best of Indianapolis!

THE INDIAN EXPERIENCE. It wasn't until our other North American team member, Free Methodist Church Bishop Joe James, invited me to tag along with him on his semi-annual administrative trip to India back in January 2006, that I'd been outside the United States as an adult. That three-week visit took us from Hyderbad to Kolkata (Calcutta) to Nagpur and, finally, to Mumbai (Bombay). It opened my eyes and heart in powerful ways. I wasn't in Kansas, er, Indiana, anymore. Mark Twain was right, India surpasses the experience of all other places combined. Since our return, I've been so looking forward to getting back India for this unique adventure.

ON THE HOMEFRONT. I'm grateful to my community of faith and family for their support and readiness to allow me to leave my place of service for six weeks. Our church leaders have been gracious. My wife and four children are both excited for me and anxious about the project. During these last two weeks before we ride, I'm busy trying to do all I can to make preparations for smooth operations and care for all in Indy during this special mssion. I hope to get on the Air India jet and be able to focus fully on the challenge of our ride and effort to raise awareness of--and funds for--Umri Christian Hospital's important work within India.

IOWA...SOMEDAY. I also hope I get to go to Iowa someday. I've always wanted to ride the RAGBRI. Maybe next year! Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.

TOUR ORGANIZER: BOB YARDY

2006-12-10T22:45:00.000-06:00

Meet Our Team Members

Bob Yardy
Mahomet, Illinois, USA

This the instigator of this crazy dream to ride 2,000 miles thru India in 6 weeks in order to raise awareness and funds to rebuild Umri Christian Hospital.

BORN IN INDIA. Bob Yardy lives in Mahomet, Illinois, USA. He works as a physical therapist at a university hospital in Champaign, Illinois. But a little over half a century ago he was born in India, at Umri Christian Hospital. His father, Dr. Paul Yardy, was the founding physician of UCH. Bob lived in Umri in the Yavatmal Disrict of Mahrashtra, India, until he was in middle school, when he moved to America.

FIFTY YEARS LATER. When Bob returned to UCH five years ago for the hospital's 50th anniversary, he was struck both by the wonderful outreach of the hospital and its ancillary services...and by the deteriorating physical condition of the facility. He vowed to try to make a difference. Bicycle India 2007 is the way he hopes that difference will be made.

PUTTING A HOBBY TO CHARITABLE PURPOSE. Bob has been an avid cyclist since his early days in India. He's pedaled thousands of miles since then on individual and group cross-country tours. But he's never done anything like what he's attempting now. He recruited John Hay, Jr. and Bishop Joe James--both of Indianapolis, Indiana--to join him in this project. Two Indian riders will accompany these North American cyclists as they make their way from the southern tip of India northward to New Delhi. The ride begins December 30.

Please track their journey for charitable contributions on this blog. Updates and photos will be posted as often as the team can access Internet cafes along the route. Thanks for your interest & involvement. Check back often for updates. Learn more @ www.bikeindia.org.