REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - YOUTH MOVEMENT

January 31, 2007 - somewhere in northern Uttar Pradesh

While India seems incredibly ancient, there are signs everywhere of its emergence in the 21st century as a modern nation. While traditional ways prevail in villages and small towns, even there it is in the faces and lives of children and youth that a very different future can be seen taking shape. Children on the move to schools and into higher levels of technical training were a constant reality throughout our 2,000-mile bicycle tour from Nagercoil in Tamil Nadu to the government center in New Delhi one year ago. It remains to be seen what shape India's future will take; it is a work in progress being formed by many different and competing forces. This dynamic makes it one of the most fascinating cultures and nations to observe over a lifetime.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - ROUGH ROAD TO SAGAR

January 30, 2007 - from Lakhnadon to Sagar

JOLTED AND JARRED. Our bicycle entourage veered off National Highway 7 and continued to travel a "short cut" to Sagar on this day last year. The road turned out to be the roughest section we would ride in the 2,000-mile journey. We were jolted and jarred. The going was slow. A few times, we almost decided to put the bikes on the trailer. But, we made it. Even for the really bad parts, there were a few segments that were good as well as hilly. Bob Yardy and I had fun sailing down a few of the hills, as this photo taken by Joe James indicates.

DO I KNOW HOW TO RIDE? I had a gnarly mountain bike crash in June 2007 and landed in the hospital with 17 fractures. Joe had this photo enlarged to poster size and framed. He brought it to my hospital room and said he just wanted everyone to know that I really do know how to ride a bike! This photo now hangs in my office for all to see.

RIDING ON. I'm back on my bike and feeling no pain. In fact, the very bike in this photo--an old Cannondale touring bike I bought used a few years ago--is what I'm riding outside through the winter. My newer Cannondale (all of 1991 "new") is on a Cyclops trainer in our basement--for use when it's just too cold outside. Today it is about 10 degrees Fahrenheit in Indianapolis, so I'll be riding inside! I'm way behind in my effort to pedal 1,000-miles (half the distance we rode in India) between December 30 and February 8 of this year, but I'm still pedaling whenever I can. -- John Hay, Jr.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - AGREEING WITH THE FOOD

January 29, 2007 - north of Lahknadon

LOCAL FOOD. During our 2,000-mile bicycle ride up through the middle of India at this time last year, we ate local food for all meals. From south to north, we ate whatever was available at the dhabas and restaurants. Without exception, it agreed with us and we agreed with it. We had to get used to the spices and chilies, sometimes asking that the food preparer go light on the chilies. Aside from that, Indian food set well with us all.

WHAT WE ATE. At the roadside dhabas that we stopped at each day, we'd have (and please pardon some of my spelling) edly, dall, roti, dosa, samosas, toasted bread, and/or an omelet for breakfast. Sometimes, Sanju and other members of our group helped cook at the dhabas (as in the photo below). After 60 kilometers of pedaling, we stop at a dirt-floor, tin-roof, open-air restaurant for a modest lunch of rice, chapatis, vegetable, chicken or mutton curry, and fruit. Each evening we reload our depleted energy with the same, or some soup and fried rice, at a local eatery.

AQUAFINA, GATORADE & BANANAS. Our essential nutrition mix focused on carbs and protein, with simple sugars for immediate energy. On the road during the daily ride, we ate bananas and whatever fresh fruit Sanju selected from roadside markets. As we were riding in 85-100 degree Fahrenheit temps, each of us took in about 6 liters of bottled water or Gatorade during the course of a day.

MANGO TREATS. One occasional indulgence (okay, constant obsession) was to comb a village or town in an evening for mango jam or mango ice cream. It was almost as good as Indian chai. Almost.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE?

January 28, 2007 - somewhere in Uttar Pradesh, India

NOWHERE, MOVING QUICKLY. The land steadily rose and became more forested, the villages few and far between the further we moved north of Nagpur. Still, we saw signs of development even when it seemed we were in the middle of nowhere. We traveled on National Highway 7 for about 85% of our bicycle ride from the southern tip of India to New Delhi. All along the 2,000-mile ride, construction on the roadway was nearly constant. The road was being upgraded and widened from south to north. We felt that India, ancient at one level, was developing rapidly and on the move at another level.

MOVING TO THE CITIES. This family was waiting for a bus to transport one or all of them to New Delhi. Movement away from villages to urban areas is steady. This is part of a complex, multi-faceted pattern that is dynamically changing the cultural and economic realities of India. One wonders if India as it is now known will be recognizable in ten years. Note the warm clothing being warn by this family: it was a "cool" 72 degrees when this photo was taken. That's about 15-20 degrees below normal for a January day in the middle of India.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - STARTING WEEK 5

January 27, 2007 - heading north from Nagpur

URBAN SCENE AND VILLAGE LIFE. This day one year ago we were one day into the 5th leg of our journey from the southern tip of India to New Delhi. We started the morning with a team of fresh Indian riders from Maharashtra Village Ministries, riding thru the city of Nagpur (population approximately 2 million) before traffic became heavy. As interesting as passing village life is, a bike ride through an urban area is overwhelming. We’ve ridden through a thousand villages and only a handful of large cities, but because the city scene is so concentrated and intense, its impact lingers long on our senses.

INTO FORESTED HEIGHTS. We continued north on NH 7 for 138 kilometers / 85.5 miles. This was 24 km / 15 mi further than we planned. But, after making the longest ascent of the tour (rising nearly 1,700 feet in a 10 km / 6.2 mi climb), the town we hoped to stay in overnight turned out to be a small village without lodging. Already tired from the tedious climb, our only recourse was to pedal another 24 km / 15 mi to a town called Seoni. We arrived safely, though weary.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - REPUBLIC DAY

January 26, 2007 - from Sevagram to Nagpur

GROUND ZERO FOR INDIAN INDEPENDENCE. One year ago today, we awoke at the home of Indian independence--Gandhi's ashram at Sevagram. Not long into our day's ride north to Nagpur, we realized it would be no ordinary day. It was Republic Day in India. Unlike anything we'd experienced in America on July 4, Indians came out into the streets in a proud demonstration of their nation's democratic freedoms.

CELEBRATING IN EVERY TOWN. Every town and village we rode through on our way to Nagpur was having a parade or celebrating. India gained its independence non-violently from England on August 15, 1947. But it was three years later--on January 26, 1950--that India formally became a republic, adopting its constitution and installing a democratically-elected government.

WORLD'S LARGEST DEMOCRACY. The democracy is still young--just 57 years old--and quite dynamic. One gets the sense that the nation is still coming into its own. India is now the world’s largest democracy, at nearly 1.2 billion citizens.

"MY INDIA." Indians are very proud of their country and its growing place among nations. It was written on their faces and in the intensity of their patriotism on this day. It was affectionately spoken: "My India!" We celebrated, too, flying the India flag on our bicycles from this day forward--all the way into New Delhi.

THE ARGUMENTATIVE INDIAN. While in India, I picked up a book by one of India's Nobel laureates. The book is titled The Argumentative Indian. The author makes the point that democracy will likely have its fullest expression in this nation because of the will and ability of Indians to express their views and concerns vociferously and to organize and take to the streets for the sake of their voices being heard. May it be so.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - AT GANDHI'S HOME

January 25, 2007 - from Yavatmal to Sevagram

FROM YAVATMAL TO WARDHA. Early in the morning on this day one year ago, our bicycle entourage was sent off by staff and students of Yavatmal College for Leadership Training. Five Indian riders from the school would accompany us to Nagpur. The more the merrier! We passed through Wardha, a major intra-India train exchange depot. We then rode on to a little place called Sevagram.

AT GANDHI’S HOME. Sevagram became the rural home of Mahatma Gandhi in 1936. From this quiet place Gandhi not only practiced the simple, powerful principles of his convictions, but led India in a non-violent march to independence until England finally "quit India" in 1947. Gandhi guided India to independence without military force, but with the force of non-violent spirit and actions of civil disobedience.

REPUBLIC DAY: JANUARY 26. Three years after English rule ended, the Indian democracy was established on January 26, 1950. Republic Day is commemorated across India with great affection. We spent the night in guest huts at Gandhi's ashram in Sevagram. It seemed fitting that we should begin Republic Day from the birthplace of Indian independence. Visiting Sevagram was a deeply moving experience for us.

ASHRAM OBSERVANCES. At the Sevagram ashram (retreat center), I read the sign posting the "Seven Deadly Social Sins" that Gandhi defined and which I have frequently contemplated. I was also interested in the 11 Ashram Observances and have contemplated the impact of the power of the use and abandonment of these practices both in India and among American Christians. Here are the 11 Ashram Observances at Sevagram:
1. Truth
2. Non-violence
3. Chastity
4. Non-possession
5. Non-stealing
6. Bread-Labor
7. Control of palate
8. Fearlessness
9. Equality of religions
10. Swadeshi (Gandhi's description: "a call to the consumer to be aware of the violence he is causing by supporting those industries that result in poverty, harm to workers and to humans and other creatures")
11. Removal of untouchability

-- John Hay, Jr.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - IN YAVATMAL

January 24, 2007 - visiting in Yavatmal, Maharashtra, India

This day one year ago, our 2,000-mile bicycle ride was idle in Yavatmal. Joe had a series of meetings, so John and Bob walked through the marketplace, caught up on news, and basically went wherever Gope wanted to take us in his homeown. We were welcomed into his home and enjoyed wonderful cooking and discussion.

The photo is a tribal dance that welcomed us when we arrived in Yavatmal. The dancers are outreach workers of Maharashtra Village Ministries, young men from villages throughout Maharashtra. I captured the dance on video and will post it here soon.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - BACK ON THE ROAD FOR WEEK 4

January 23, 2007 - from Umri to Yavatmal, Maharashtra, India

On this day last year, we rode about 40 miles to Yavatmal. After a long weekend at Umri Christian Hospital, we were ready to get back on our bikes and get on up the road. We were welcomed into Yavatmal by Free Methodist friends and outreach workers of Maharashtra Village Ministries. We would spend a day in Yavatmal for a series of meetings before heading north toward Nagpur--our next major city on the map that led to New Delhi.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - HELEN ROSE SCHOOL OF NURSING

January 22, 2007 - on the UCH Campus in Umri, Maharashtra, India

REACHING OUT. The nurses training program on the campus of Umri Christian Hospital is robustly developing based on the vision of its founders--an outgoing husband and wife nurse team. Amirson and Esther Jacob recruit and equip for professional nursing young women who do not have the means to attend other nursing schools. They also reach out to brides of arranged marriages who have been abandoned by their husbands and who are at risk of suicide. The Amirson's work is inspiring!

WINNING AWARDS. Named for a Free Methodist missionary, the Helen Rose School of Nursing is certified by the government. It has received awards for its outreach and excellence. However, it is essential for the continued certification and development of Helen Rose School of Nursing that Umri Christian Hospital's facilities be replaced and its equipment upgraded. Want to help? Visit our website to support.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - UMRI CHRISTIAN HOSPITAL

January 21, 2007 - visiting at Umri Christian Hospital

WHY WE RODE 2,000 MILES. This day one year ago, though we had more than 800 yet to pedal, we took time to visit the place for which we were riding 2,000 miles through India. We had a good day with the staff, participants and supporters of Umri Christian Hospital in the village Umri (Yavatmal District of Maharashtra state, India).

AN EXPANSIVE CAMPUS. In addition to the hospital, the campus includes a Free Methodist Church, Bethel Youth Hostel, an English medium school, and the Helen Rose School of Nursing. It is a significant complex of healthcare, education, and spiritual formation. The youth hostel and nursing school buildings are relatively new.

HOSPITAL TO BE REPLACED. The heart of the campus is the hospital, which serves the poorest of the poor in a medically-underserved area. The hospital is housed in 1920's-era buildings. The facilities are deteriorating and in dire need of replacement. While we were there, we were glad to participate in the groundbreaking for the first wing of the new hospital. Since then, construction has progressed well, in spite of major flooding experienced in the Autumn of 2007.

MORE FUNDS TO RAISE. We hope to be able to return to Umri in a few years when the hospital complex is complete. Over $330,000 has thus far been raised for hospital construction and new equipment. An additional $270,000 is still needed for the project to be completed. Every contribution makes a difference. Can you help?

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - CELEBRATION AT UMRI

January 20, 2007 - from Adilabad to the village of Umri, Maharashtra

VILLAGE WELCOME. One year ago today, our bicycle group arrived in the village of Umri, home of Umri Christian Hospital--the aging medical facility for which our ride was raising awareness and funds for a complete rebuild. We were welcomed both by the village leaders and residents as well as the hospital, nursing school, church, youth hostel, and English school students, staff, and friends. Hundreds of people lined the road and campus to greet us. On campus, we had a huge celebration under a tent to shield us from the hot sun. Great singing, gracious words, joyful hearts. What a day it was!

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - CHASED BY WILD DOGS

January 19, 2007 - Nirmal to Adilabad

NOT PETS. This is the day one year go that I was chased by wild dogs. Relatively early in the morning, I made it to the top of a mountain after a long series of switchbacks and was coasting slowly, waiting on the other riders. Out of the corner of my eye, I saw some dogs at distance begin to move toward me. Typical Indian dogs don't chase anything. But this was a pack of dogs and they were running hard. They were reddish-brown and quite vicious. They picked up speed and closed in quickly. Full of fear and exploding with adrenaline, I also picked up speed. The lead dog got within 10 feet before I was able to find a high gear and, with the benefit of starting down the other side of the mountain, pedal away. The dogs finally gave up and headed off the road. I cell-phoned back to the other riders to warn them. But the dogs, which I later learned were called dholes and known for cornering and killing large animals, had departed by the time the other riders and the trailer-pulling Tata Victa went through that stretch of road. I felt grateful to have escaped unharmed. -- John Hay, Jr.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - SANJU SUMADRE

January 18, 2007 - riding to Nirmal

SWEATING THE DETAILS. He is a professional driver, by trade. He is the very embodiment of a servant, by spirit. Even today, one year and half a world away, Sanju Sumadre is an inspiration to me of grace under pressure. His nickname is "Gope." While we pedaled along on our bikes feeling like we were working hard, Gope sweated detail after detail, request after request day after day. Where would we eat for breakfast? For lunch? Was the food safe for us to eat? Could he toast bread for us at the dhaba? Could we get more mango jam? Where would we spend the night? Where would we share an evening meal? How would clothes get laundered? How can we get all that luggage in the back of the Tata Victa?

TRIP MANAGER. And all the while Gope smiles, genuinely smiles. "No problem," he responds. When we arrive at a place of lodging, we head for the showers. Gope heads out to help me find an Internet cafe, scopes out places to eat, buys fresh fruit and supplies for the next day, and performs--unasked, unprompted, but in ready anticipation--endless menial tasks. He handles all our money, makes all purchases, barters for the best price. At the end of the trip, his thrift has brought our journey expenses well under budget. He is paid well and we are able to give left-over expense money to the capital fund to rebuild Umri Christian Hospital.

RESISTING GOPE'S HELP. I acted like a "proud American" during much of our 2,000-mile ride through India. I insisted on carrying all my own luggage, getting my own supplies, finding Internet sites for blogging on my own. Still, there was Gope ever insisting: "I take." "I help." "I buy." "I find." He would seem genuinely disappointed when I resisted his offers of help. I tried to convey to him that caring for my own things was not only fair, but my way of relieving him of unnecessary stress. He just didn't see it that way. Eventually, I began to cooperate with his way and his way helped me accomplish all I'd hoped I would.

LOOKING FOR GOPE. I miss Gope. Of all the people we met and all the friends we made, whom I hope to see and be with again, Gope stands out. I'd like for Gope to be able to visit America; he has a brother living here. Several times he has applied for a Visa and each time has been denied. But if he can visit, I would like to serve him here as he served us there. I hope to return to India, perhaps for another bike ride, perhaps at the dedication of the new Umri Christian Hospital. And I will look for Gope, waiting again outside the airport terminal. And the excursion will have been complete. -- John Hay, Jr.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - TRIBALS

January 17, 2007 - riding north on National Highway 7

TRIBES OF PEOPLE. All along the 2,000-mile ride from the southern tip of India to New Delhi, mostly along NH 7, we encountered tribal people. Most of India, both rural and urban, is oriented to tribal identities. Some tribal groups maintain ancient ways of living. A few tribal groups are nomadic or migrant. We encountered this group of people residing in stalk huts one day north of Hyderabad. The juxtaposition of tribal life in and near modern cities is mind-stretching and heart-grabbing.

AN EFFERVESCENT FEAST. What our eyes see as we pedal along an Indian highway: A man follows a plow pulled by oxen. Women plant rice fields in calf-deep mud and water. Traffic slows for a herd of cattle being driven down the road. A flock of goats forage by the road, several with their front feet on the trunk of a tree while they reach for tender leaves. School children in uniform wait for their transportation beside the road, smiling, waving, and calling out to us. Men on motorcycles and in auto-rickshaws slow down to ask about us. A caravan of oxcarts with sugar cane piled high creates a challenge for steering your bike as you approach them from behind. There’s an ancient fort on the right. See that little Hindu shrine over there? Monkeys play along the side of the road. And this is just the countryside; India’s cities and towns are even more interesting. India by bicycle is an effervescent feast for the senses and an artesian well for the heart.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - BACK ON OUR BIKES

January 16, 2007 - moving north out of Hyderabad

ON THE ROAD AGAIN. Our bicycle group of three North American and two Indian riders headed north out of Hyderabad on this day one year ago. We were joined by a man from the state of Washington in the US--David Goodnight. David would ride with us as far as Umri. Having been off the bikes for several days, we were more than ready and happy to be pedaling again. The week would take us north on NH 7 toward Nagpur. But before getting to Nagpur, we would veer off NH 7 to spend several days in Umri--the village in Maharashtra state where Umri Christian Hospital stands.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - FORT GOLCONDA

January 15, 2007 - Touring Hyderabad

ANTIQUITY EVERYWHERE. While it's cold and snowy in Indianapolis today, it was 85 degrees and sunny where we were in Hyderabad, India this day last year. Bob Yardy and I toured the Nehru Zoological Park and Golconda Fort. I'd wanted to see something of real antiquity (as if I hadn't seen enough of it on NH 7), so we were taken to this massive fort. Goloconda was a centuries-long project built on a towering peak above Hyderabad by Indian labor for the outlandish desires of the Maharajahs.

A TIME TO BUILD. The fort was impressive in every way. But the realization of the corrupt power it represented and its cost in lives, servitude, and abuse saddened me. I climbed up the rock-carved stairs to the very top of the fort and then descended quickly. I walked back to our truck in silence. That day, I think I let go of my fascination with forts--in India, in America or anywhere else. Indians have been building exquisite shrines to foreign conquerors and high-minded oppressors for thousands of years. Perhaps they can now build a society of freedom and creativity that is all their own. -- John Hay, Jr.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - DANCING & FOOT WASHING

January 14, 2007 - Speaking and Serving in Hyderabad

SERVICE & CELEBRATION. Each of our core team members spoke about our project of raising funds and awareness for rebuilding Umri Christian Hospital at different locations on this day last year. In the afternoon, we headed to a youth hostel for a welcome celebration by the Emmanuel Conference of the Free Methodist Church. It was an uproarious event with garlands, dancing, signs, and children throwing flower petals. Men danced the “tiger dance,” encircling each of our cycling team members and gyrating to tribal drums and instruments. What fun!

SYMBOL OF SACRIFICE & PARTNERSHIP. After the hilarity, we were then offered a foot washing--an ancient rite of both honor and humble service--by two bishops of the Indian church. Feet that were pedaling the length of India for the sake of raising funds to rebuild Umri Christian Hospital were caressed by hands that offer servant leadership to the pastors that serve fledgling communities of faith throughout the southern part of India. In turn, we were privileged to wash the feet of the Bishops.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - BIKES & BIKE SHOPS

January 13, 2007 - arriving in Hyderabad

CELEBRATION AND NIGHT RIDE. We arrived in the bustling, rapidly-growing city of Hyderabad on this day one year ago. It's been affectionately dubbed "Cyberabad" for its computer tech centers. After riding only 20 miles, our entourage was greeted and celebrated with a street parade and gathering of over 500 Free Methodists. Lots of humbling hoopla; we were made to feel like heroes. After a shared early-afternoon lunch, we got back on our bikes to travel through Hyderabad to our weekend quarters at the Operation Mobilization center on the other side of the city. What we thought would be a brief 10-mile jaunt turned into a harrowing 25-mile ordeal, as our local guide decided to take us around the city instead of through it. The extra time took us into the evening; we rode the last five miles in the dark--a scary ordeal on American roads and much more so in India. But, we all arrived safely.

BIKES FOR SALE! I enjoyed stopping briefly at a few of the many bicycle shops in Hyderabad. More bikes than autos are sold and serviced in India, so a bike shop in a city is quite a center of activity and intrigue. The bike shop in this photo is typical of an urban bicycle shop. It is a far cry from the single repairman sitting on the ground in the market that I observed on New Year's Eve. Most bikes are either Atlas, Hero or Hercules brands and are a standard-size, single-speed, sturdy-steel frame painted black. Most bikes in India are not used for recreation; they're used for work. But in the city we saw a few multi-speed bikes and a few bikes sporting mountain bike handlebars or sport-style features. But even sport bikes had to be used for ride sharing--either passengers or a burden.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - THE DHABAS

January 12, 2007 - nearing Hyderabad

EATING AT DHABAS. During our daily rides, we would stop to eat an early-morning breakfast and noon-time lunch at dhabas, or open-air restaurants, along National Highway 7. The dhabas are operated by local folk and it is usually a family affair. The food was cooked with wood or other biofuel stoking hot plates and ceramic ovens. It was quite basic. But the food was usually tasty and surprisingly consistent. Sanju, our driver, would find dhabas that had well-cooked food and, when possible, meat to eat. Most Hindus are vegetarians, but you can find plenty of dhabas that serve chicken or mutton (goat) dishes.

ENGLISH-SPEAKING FUTURE. Most of the people we encountered at the dhabas did not speak English. But occasionally a child in the family waiting to go to school or returning from school would be anxious to try out the English they were learning at school on us. This girl at a rural dhaba south of Hyderabad spoke English quite well and her parents were proud of her ability to communicate with us. I have since wondered about this girl's future and what potential it holds. I imagine her future will be far different than that of her parents. Young people who become proficient at English and computers skills find well-paying work in the international corporate centers in Bangalore and Hyderabad. We were told that a young person can earn more in one year than their parents will have made in a lifetime. -- John Hay, Jr.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - GADGETS ON OUR JOURNEY

January 11, 2007 - between Bangalore and Hyderabad

AN 80-MILER. We bicycled 80 miles on this day last year to get to a busy little town that put us about 150 kilometers south of Hyderabad--the major Indian city that would be our second-weekend destination. It was one of those days when the town we were looking for was really much further than expected. "Only 20 kilometers to go" really meant 40 k further up the road in the sun, heat, dust, and honking trucks. We were over six hours in the saddle on our 13th day. But we arrived safely.

GADGETS FOR THE JOURNEY. We carried several gadgets on our bikes that heightened interest on the journey through India. Each North American rider had a cycle computer, which measures such things as current speed, average speed, distance for the day, total distance for the trek, rpms/cadence, duration of the ride, maximum speed for the day. I used a handlebar-mounted E-Trex GPS unit, which tabulates information like altitude, direction, and a hundred other interesting geo-positioning facts. Two of us carried binoculars. We took still photos and video footage each day. Bob Yardy make audio reports into a tiny digital voice machine. I listened to music and books on my iPod all along the route. And, of course, we and our Indian hosts all yacked on cell phones throughout the journey (there will be more cell phone customers in India than in the USA by the end of 2008!).

INTERNET POSTING. In addition, I would pull out my laptop computer each evening, make an entry, download photos from my camera and Joe's, put the entry and photos on a pin drive and head into the marketplace in search of an Internet cafe. I would post the entries and photos to our blog and check e-mail and news. Almost every town we stayed in had Internet access. Rarely was it high-speed access, but it was usable and useful.

NECESSARY OR HELPFUL? All this for a simple bike ride. Were any of these electronic gadgets necessary? No. Were they helpful? Yes. Our Indian hosts and the folks we encountered along the way must have thought we were crazy. Gracefully, they indulged us.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - ZOO ON THE ROAD

January 10, 2007 - to Dhone, Karnataka

A THIRD OF THE WAY TO DELHI. One year ago today was our twelfth day in the saddle on our 2,000-mile trek through India. We reached the one-third point in our journey. With untrained Indian riders as our companions, our pace was slower and we were spending more time on our bikes each day than expected. But, all in all, we were pleased with our progress.

THE ROAD ZOO. Some local folk refered to Indian roads as "the zoo." Seriously, we saw enough variety of animals on, beside or near National Highway 7 to populate a small zoo. Motorized vehicles and bicycles share the road with oxcarts and pony-drawn carriages, with goat and sheep herders, with all kinds of cows and water buffalo. Alongside the roads, one frequently saw chickens, pigs, monkeys, and a variety of unfamiliar birds. Strangely, all this seemed normal to us. Why NOT use this main north-south roadway to move India’s dynamic life along?

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - WOMEN LABORERS

January 9, 2007 - between Bangalore and Hyderabad

WORK ALONG THE WAY. These women aren't dressed up for a special event. This is standard brillance and variety of color in everyday saris worn by women all over India. These women were working as field laborers. They carried grain- and weed-cutting tools along with a lunch box. Two men were apparently in the role of foremen. We encountered many such groups of laborers throughout our 2,000-mile bike ride through India this time last year. Our day-long toil on our bikes couldn't match the hard work these folks put in. We wondered what their compensation per hour or for a day's labor would be. We also wondered if the people so working had choices in the type of work in which they engaged.

Photo by Joe James

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - INTO WEEK 2

January 8, 2007 - from Bangalore to Bagepalli, Karnataka

REJOINING THE JOURNEY. On this day one year ago, we struck out from Bangalore with two new Indian riders, Mohan and Shereesh. Our guide through Karnataka was a minister named Sagar. It was very humbling to think these guys would take a week out of their year to accompany us on our journey. We set our sights on making it to Hyderabad by week's end. Each day we would crank about 100 kilometers northward on National Highway 7.

MARKETPLACE VARIETY. Villages are relatively close together throughout India. We were never far from a village and a small marketplace. The marketplaces were full of carts filled with every kind of ware that might possibly sell. Fruit and vegetable carts were most prominent and they were often tended by children, like this girl, while other family members tended other marketplace duties. What a great smile!

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - JOSE & ANAND

January 7, 2007 - resting in Bangalore, Karnataka and visiting in Vellore, Tamil Nadu

THREE PLUS TWO. Little did we know how much of an impact the Indian riders would have on our 2,000-mile cycling trek from the southern tip of India to New Delhi. Three of us were North American--two from the United States and one from Canada. Two riders were from India--but a different two riders each week and each state. The Indian riders were companions to orient us to their particular area, language, culture, customs, etc. Since India has so many different languages and tribes, we felt it was important to spread the experience and sensitize ourselves as best we could to India's diversity.

FROM NAGERCOIL TO BANGALORE. The first set of riders were two teenagers from Nagercoil in Tamil Nadu. Jose and Anand were best friends and Christians, though not Free Methodists. They were great traveling companions. Their humor and earnestness won our hearts. They rode slower than we wanted to ride and we tried to coach them in how to use the multiple speeds on the bikes we provided to their advantage. They eventually sped up--a little. For untrained riders, they rode hard and performed well. As it turns out, they kept the best pace of any of the many wonderful riders who joined us in the remaining five weeks.

WISHING TO RIDE TO NEW DELHI. Jose and Anand hoped other riders would not be found in Bangalore and that they could ride with us all the way to New Delhi. There's a part of me that still wishes that could've happened for them. I have no doubt they were capable of making the entire trek. Watching them head to the train station in Bangalore on this day one year ago was difficult. I hope I will see them again someday. -- John Hay, Jr.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - "CHAI?"

January 6, 2007 - into Bangalore, Karnataka

A HARROWING RIDE INTO BANGALORE. One year ago, five of us who had started pedaling from Nagercoil, Tamil Nadu, India seven days earlier, arrived in Bangalore, Karnataka. Bangalore is a city of 10 million souls--and it seemed like they were all on National Highway 7, our route into the metropolis. A far cry from the light traffic in rural areas, we were in thick traffic all the way into Bangalore. Once in the city, our host led us on his motorcycle to a guest house. “Led us” means that we wound our way through four lanes of traffic packed with all sorts of vehicles, turning left and right, crossing lanes back and forth. Harrowing. And invigorating!

AFTER EIGHT DAYS. To this point, we had ridden an average of 110 kilometers (68 miles) a day for eight straight days. We were not exhausted, but we were certainly looking forward to a rest day. In Bangalore, we said farewell to our Tamil Nadu riders Jose and Anand. These young men from Nagercoil rode strong and had great humor; they would be the best Indian riders we would have with us on the six-week journey.

"CHAI?" We enjoyed chai several times each day--first thing in the morning, at mid-morning break, mid-afternoon break, and usually in the evening. Indian chai is hot Indian tea mixed with hot milk, spices, and lots of sugar. I suppose tea time in India is a tradition held over from English days. I drink generous amounts of coffee--black, no sugar--but I didn't have any coffee during this excursion. Indian chai won my taste and heart. I prefer Indian-style tea to what I know of English and American teas. I also prefer it to coffee. But, despite Gope sending me home with Indian tea and his own recipe, I can't match the native Indian taste (another good excuse for returning to India!) -- John Hay, Jr.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - BICYCLE AS A SHOP

January 5, 2007 - to Hosur, Karnataka

CLIMB EVERY MOUNTAIN. “On the Eleventh Day of Christmas my True Love gave to me...” -- eleven mountains to climb! Out of 97 kilometers (60.5 miles) we pedaled on this day last year, over half were invested in mountain climbing. The toil brought us steadily up toward the metropolis of Bangalore. The ride took us out of the state of Tamil Nadu and into Karnataka. The language changed from Tamil to Kannada.

BIKE AS A SHOP. Throughout our trek through India, we were impressed by the diverse and practical use of bicycles. This fellow carried and sold water jugs of various sizes and styles on his bike. So, in addition to a 45-lb. bike, we figured he had at least an additional 120 lbs. to carry. Can you imagine the balance this takes? He won't go anywhere fast, but he'll have his shop with him when he gets to where he wants to go.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - HINDU PILGRIMS

January 4, 2007 - to Dharmapuri, Tamil Nadu

FIRST HILL CLIMBS. We pedaled to within 90 miles of Bangalore on this day in January 2007. Along the way, we encountered our first major climb, a 3 kilometer-long climb up into a high plane. I thought the steep hill would never end. Half way up the hill we encountered monkeys for the first time. A group of fifteen or so of the critters were frolicking by the roadside. We were too focused on making it up the hill to stop and take photos. Near the top, a roadside vendor was selling coconuts, so we drank coconut milk and ate some of the soft center before carrying on.

HINDUS ON PILGRIMAGE. We also encountered a group of Hindu pilgrims on their way to a religious festival. These devotees were kind enough to pose for Joe James' camera. Not sure how far they had to go, but they were making the journey on foot. Hinduism is incredibly diverse in its forms, expressions and intensities of devotion by Indians. Some take its claims and religious rituals quite radically; others seem to shrug it off. I note that the same can be said of American Christians. -- John Hay, Jr.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - BIKES EVERYWHERE

January 3, 2007 - from Dindigul to Namakkal, Tamil Nadu

RIDING A TAILWIND. This day one year ago, Bob Yardy, Joe James, Indian riders Jose and Anand and I pedaled 74 miles to Namakkal in Tamil Nadu. It was our best day of riding to date. We had a tailwind and it seemed like we were riding on clouds. Each day brought us closer to Bangalore, "the Silicon Valley of India." Our goal was to arrive in Bangalore on our seventh day of riding for two days of rest and transition.

INTRIGUED BY OUR BIKES. Everywhere we stopped for a rest or for lunch, people--young and old alike--gathered around to look at our bikes and gear. 99% of bicycles in India are single-speed with heavy, one-size-fits-all frames. Our bikes have 21 gears. Folks closely examined our derailleurs, gear-shifters, cycle computers, helmets, pedals, gear shifts, and my aero bars. Some would lift our bikes, finding them very lightweight, and make excited comments to each other.

PEDAL SUPREMACY. Bikes form the backbone of basic transportation in India. They are not used for recreation, but for personal, family, and business mobility purposes. There are still more bikes on the 2,000 miles of roads we traveled than autos, trucks and motorbikes combined. It is likely that motorized vehicles are becoming much more prevalent, but they have not yet overtaken the standard bicycle. -- John Hay, Jr.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - FEAST FOR THE SENSES

January 2, 2007 - to Dindigul, Tamil Nadu

FROM FRIGID TO HOT. As I shoveled a fresh layer of snow off our sidewalk this morning in 5-degree (Fahrenheit) temperature with the windchill factor hovering at -15, I longed to be in India. There, one year ago on this day, I would have been pedaling along in a short-sleeve jersey and shorts in 90-degree temperatures under a cloudless sky. Here in Indianapolis, I dress in layers for warmth even as the frigid air takes my breath away.

A FEAST FOR THE SENSES. The trek from the outskirts of Madurai to Dindigul on January 2, 2007 was a mere 74 kilometers--our shortest ride day to that point. But even a brief ride in India is still a feast for the senses. You know it's the 21st century because of the aluminum-frame bike, the GPS unit on the handlebars and the cell phone at your side, but the ox-drawn wagon, the women carrying water jars from the hand-pump well and the mill grinding in the village makes you feel like you're in another millenia. This is the reality of India today. Ancient and modern, simple and complex, sheltered and exposed, naive and knowing, rich and poor. And all profound. -- John Hay, Jr.

REFLECTIONS OF INDIA - "HAPPY NEW YEAR!"

January 1, 2007 - to Madurai, Tamil Nadu

HAPPY NEW YEAR! We pedaled over 87 miles along National Highway 7 in the state of Tamil Nadu, India on New Year's Day 2007. And in every village and town we heard the cheerful greeting, "Happy New Year!" Perhaps this is only one of a few words or phrases many Tamil Nadu residents know in English, but it was related with gusto.

GOING TO SCHOOL. The happy greetings heartened us on our third day--one of our longest--of riding south to north, right through the center of India. Throughout the six-week ride, we encountered many uniformed school children waiting for buses and walking together to school in the towns. These boys were pretty excited to be in front of the camera. Photo by Joe James

Thanks for your interest in our effort to raise awareness and support to rebuild Umri Christian Hospital in Umri, Yavatmal, India